服装设计外文翻译文献.docx

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1、文献信息：文献标题:Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable Consumption （可持续消费的 具有前瞻性的服装设计） 国外作者:Kirsi Niinimaki文献出处:Nordic Textile Journal,2012, 1:60-69.字数统计:英文3104单词，17881字符；中文5737汉字外文文献：Proactive Fashion Design for Sustainable ConsumptionAbstractThis article presents a study that investigates product sati

2、sfaction in the context of clothing. The paper furthermore presents suggestions on how this knowledge can be used to create proactive fashion design for sustainable consumption. One of the main challenges in today s consumer society is how to design products that encourage consumers to engage in mor

3、e environmentally responsible behaviour, sustainable consumption. This paper opens the discussion on how to change current unsustainable consumption behaviour related to clothing through a visionary, far-sighted design approach. Designers can create future- oriented sustainable designs that can tran

4、sform consumption patterns towards more s/he can simply change some parts or elements in the garment to have the experienceof newness.Garment exchange or renting services offer possibilities for consumers to make changes to their clothing in more sustainable ways. New and interesting examples of clo

5、thing membership clubs exist. By paying a monthly membership fee, a consumer can select a certain number of garments to use, giving himor her the opportunity to change the appearance in a more sustainable way. This type of business strategy has emerged e.g. in the field of childrens clothing. Consum

6、ers can rent childrens outfits and when the child outgrows a size, the parent can obtain larger-size garments from the clothing club.ConclusionsThis study investigated product satisfaction in the context of clothing and this knowledge was used to understand and define proactive fashion design for su

7、stainable consumption. It opened views into the process of consumer satisfaction. A main issue that arises when aiming to extend the life of garments is to increase their durability and intrinsic quality. Moreover, fulfilling consumers9 other expectations regarding the garment s aesthetic and functi

8、onal attributes is important to ensure product satisfaction. Finally the issue of value is most important with regard to deep product satisfaction: values associated with the product, the manufacturing process and behind the companies have to meet the consumers5 own value base so that the consumer f

9、eels completely satisfied with the product.By identifying the reasons for the short and long-term use of clothing, it is possible to find new ways to create sustainable designs that can result in a redirective practice directed towards sustainable consumption. Proactive fashion design for sustainabl

10、e consumption takes these reasons into account, thus enabling clothing longevity. Satisfying consumers expectations regarding quality, functionality, aesthetics and value is a key to extending the use time of a product. Moreover, the emotional side of consumption must be understood to provide more s

11、ustainable ways to ensure customer satisfaction.The PSS approach provides an opportunity to extend the enjoyable use of a product and thus avoid psychological obsolescence and a garment s premature disposal. Stimulating a sense of meaningful uniqueness and achievement through design services or “ se

12、lf-made ” approaches is a promising route to enhancing consumer satisfaction. If a consumer is satisfied, then strengthening the emotional bond between the product and consumer is possible. In turn, this meaningful attachment is the best way to postpone a products disposal. When the product or its u

13、se is somehow special to the consumer, s/he will take good care of it to extend its enjoyable use time.The most promising sustainable design strategy is the combination of product design with service elements: PSS strategies are therefore a future path to proactive and sustainable design.中文译文：可持续消费的

14、具有前瞻性的服装设计摘要本文从服装的角度对产品满意度进行了研究。针对如何利用这些知识 创造面向可持续消费的具有前瞻性的服装设计，本文还提出了建议。当今消费 社会面临的主要挑战之一是如何设计产品，鼓励消费者从事更环保的行为，可 持续消费。本文采用一种有智慧、有远见的设计方法，就如何改变当前与服装 相关的不可持续的消费行为展开了讨论。设计师可以创造面向未来的可持续设 计，将消费模式转变为更可持续的消费模式。因此，可持续设计是具有针对性 的实践活动，主旨是可持续消费，其中，服装设计可以成为实现这一主旨的具 有前瞻性的方法。关键词：前瞻性设计，可持续设计，可持续消费，情感满意度，PSSo引言产品需要符

15、合消费者需求和使用模式；因此，设计可以说是“实践导 向”，创造某些日常实践和消费行为（肖夫等人，2007, 134-136）。目前的工 业设计和批量生产体系导致了消费主义和一次性产品的生产（沃克，2007, 51）。快速变化的趋势导致了消费者不可持续的消费行为。为了在设计、制造 和消费之间创造一个新的、可持续的平衡，诞生了可以推动更可持续消费行为 的另一种创造产品的方法。因此，设计师应该评估每个设计决策将如何影响消 费者的消费模式。从这个角度来说，可持续设计是一种重新的、积极的实践活 动，其主旨是实现可持续消费（弗赖伊，2009, 53）。更高的产量和同时增长的消费量导致了物质消费量的增加（特

16、罗恩-霍尔斯 特等人，2007）。不断变化的时尚趋势、经济实惠的产品价格以及质量低下的 消费产品，使得消费者不得不从事不可持续的消费行为，如冲动购买，过度消 费，使用时间短，过早处置产品，等等。随着使用寿命短的产品的购买量的增 加，其废品量也在显著上涨。目前，约有70%的弃置衣物和纺织品最终进入垃 圾填埋场，在许多西方国家，服装和纺织品废料被认为是增长最快的废料流 （弗莱彻，2008, 98） o消费者丢弃服装，不仅因为这些服装已经穿旧了，还 因为他们总是寻求新奇的东西。然而，产品的耐久性和长期使用是可持续消费 的先决条件：即延长产品的寿命是实现可持续消费的必要条件（库珀， 2005）。不过，

17、重要的是，消费者将耐久性与高品质联系起来，而不考虑环境 影响。情感是人类生活的中心，它们影响着我们的大部分行为、动机和思维过程 （德斯梅特，2009, 379） o在消费中情感也发挥着重要作用。对当代消费者来 说，欲望、需求、价值观、态度和体验之间的相互作用是具有情感意义的。服 装和时尚用品属于自我表达产品的范畴，而此类产品，与消费相关的情感对消 费者来说是重要的。正如瑞金斯（2009）认为的那样，这些消费情感是当代社 会的重要因素，尤其是在购买活动之后。购买情况对消费者来说是一种强烈的 正面体验，但它具有短暂性，与更深层次的满足感或个人-产品依附的体验无关 （同上）。通过新的购买活动，消费者

18、至少暂时可以再次体验到兴奋、享受、 愉悦和乐趣。从环境的角度来看，当人与产品之间需要持续的积极情感，或者寻求用其 他积极情感状态来取代物质消费的解决办法时，研究消费方式和消费意义是十 分重要的。设计过程应着眼于可持续的消费者对产品的满意度或与个人-产品依 附的过程。此外，还应该开发一种新的产品服务系统（PSS）,以延长产品的使 用时间。PSS策略还可以为消费者提供新的情感体验，从而推迟产品的处置； 因此，PSS思维可以避免购买新的衣服，这是一个减少物质消费的机会。对服装的可持续满意度如果将当前不可持续的消费模式转变为可持续的消费模式，就必须调查哪 种设计方式能够产生可持续满意度。为了更深入地了

19、解设计怎样产生满意度， 以及如何延长服装的使用乐趣，首先要解释满意的过程。根据斯旺和库姆斯（1976）的观点，服装的性能可以分为工具性能（物理 性质）和表现性能。表现性能与消费者对服装的心理反应有关，如美的体验。 工具性要求（例如质量预期）必须首先得到满足。然而，只完成工具性要求并 不能达到满意度。因此，如果要完全达到满意度，服装也必须满足消费者的情 感需求（斯旺和库姆斯，1976） o良好的内在质量是确保消费者满意度和服装使用时间的最佳选择。高质量 意味着材料的耐用和制作质量的高超。一件令人愉悦的、漂亮的衣服在长时间 使用的过程中，不仅需要保持较高的内在质量，而且还要设计的款式更经典、 使用

20、的材料更耐用。一些纺织材料经过短期使用之后会显得很陈旧。这些材料 可能会出现起球现象，或者在几次洗涤后看起来很旧。需要频繁洗涤的服装可 能看起来老得很快，因此，识别以更美观的方式变旧的材料很重要。研究显示 （Niinimaki, 2010）,就消费者的体验而言，羊毛和真皮的老化过程比较美 观。消费者报告说，使用高质量的羊毛，老化过程并不明显，而在皮革中，其 老化过程随时间的变化显得相当明显（同上）。sustainable ones. Design for sustainability can thus be a redirective practice that aims for sustai

21、nable consumption, and the ways in which fashion design can be a proactive process with this aim will be described.Keywords:proactive design, sustainable design, sustainable consumption, emotional satisfaction, PSS.IntroductionProducts configure consumer needs and use patterns; hence, design can be

22、said to be “ practice-oriented ” , creating certain everyday practices and consumption behaviour (Shove et al. 2007, 134 一 136). Current industrial design and massmanufacturing systems stimulate consumerism and the production of disposable products (Walker 2007, 51). Fast changing trends lead to con

23、sumers5 unsustainable consumption behaviour. To create a new, sustainable balance between design, manufacturing and consumption, alternative ways to create products are required to drive more sustainable consumption behaviour. Therefore, designers should evaluate how each design decision affects a c

24、onsumer1 s consumption patterns.Understood in this way, sustainable design can be a redirective or a proactive practice that aims for sustainable practices in consumption (Fry 2009, 53).Higher production volumes and simultaneous growing consumption have caused an increase in material consumption (Th

25、rone-Hoist et al. 2007). Ever-changing fashion trends, affordable product prices and low-quality products cause consumers to engage in unsustainable consumption behaviour, such as impulse purchases, overconsumption, short use time and premature disposal of products. The increase in the purchase of s

26、hort-lifespan products results in a notable increase in waste. Currently, approximately 70 percent of disposed clothing and textiles end up in landfills, and in many Western countries clothing and textile waste is estimated to be the fastest growing waste stream (Fletcher 2008, 98). Consumers discar

27、d gaments not only because they are worn out but also because they actively seek novelty. Nevertheless, product durability and longterm use are prerequisites for sustainable consumption: i.e. extending the life span of products is essential when the goal is sustainable consumption (Cooper 2005). Imp

28、ortantly, however, consumers associate durability with high quality and not with environmental impact.Emotions lie at the centre of human life, and they influence most of our behaviours, motivations and thought processes (Desmet 2009, 379). Emotions also play a strong role in consumption. The interp

29、lay between wants, needs, values, attitudes and experiences is emotionally meaningful fbr a contemporary consumer. Clothing and fashion items belong to the category of self-expressive products, and with such products, consumption-related emotions are important to the consumer. As Richins (2009) argu

30、ed, these consumption emotions are important elements in contemporary society and especially after the purchase event. The purchase situation becomes a strong positive experience fbr a consumer, but it is very short term in nature and has no connection to the experience of deeper satisfaction or per

31、son-product attachment (ibid). Through a new purchase event, the consumer can again experience excitement, enjoyment Joy and pleasure, at least momentarily.From an environmental point of view, studying consumption patterns and the meanings of consumption is important when sustained positive emotions

32、 in person- product relationships are desired or solutions are sought to replace materialistic consumption with other positive emotional states. The design process should focus on sustainable consumer satisfaction with a product or with the person 一 product attachment process. Moreover, a new kind o

33、f product service system (PSS) should be developed that aims to prolong the enjoyable use time of the product. A PSS strategy can also offer the consumer new emotional experiences, which can postpone the disposal of the product; PSS thinking can thereby aim to avoid a new garment purchase, which is

34、an opportunity to decrease materialistic consumption.Sustainable Satisfaction with ClothingIf current unsustainable consumption patterns are to be transformed into more sustainable ones, the ways in which design can offer sustainable satisfaction must be investigated. To gain a deeper understanding

35、of the opportunities to deliver satisfaction by design and how the enjoyable use of gamients can be extended, the satisfaction process must first be explained.According to Swan and Combs (1976), the performance of clothing can be separated into instrumental performance (physical properties) and expr

36、essive performance. Expressive performance is linked to a consumer s psychological response to the garment, such as the experience of beauty. Instrumental requirements (e.g. quality expectations) must be satisfied first. Nevertheless, only fulfilling instrumental requirements will not result in sati

37、sfaction. Therefore clothing must also meet consumers9emotional needs if it is to deliver satisfaction (Swan and Combs 1976).Hence good intrinsic quality is optimal fbr ensuring consumer satisfaction and to guarantee the longevity of clothing. High quality means durable materials and high manufactur

38、ing quality. The ageing process of a pleasant, aesthetic garment requires not only maintaining high intrinsic quality but also the design of a more classical style and use of durable materials. Some textile materials look old after a short use time. The material might experience pilling or may look

39、old after a few washes. Garments needing frequent washing may look old rather quickly; therefore, recognising materials that age in a more aesthetically pleasing manner is important. Studies have shown (Niinimaki 2010) that consumers experience e.g. wool and real leather to age in an aesthetically p

40、leasant way. Consumers report that with high quality wool the ageing process does not show as obviously and in leather the ageing process is experienced as an attractive temporal dimension (ibid.).Consumers respect aesthetic attributes in the long-term use of clothing, and aesthetic attributes corre

41、spond to expressive performance in clothing satisfaction. Accordingly, expressive performance affects the psychological response to clothing. The aesthetic attributes that correlate to the longevity of clothing are good fit, personal cut, nice colours and comfortable materials,as well as a classic l

42、ook (see Table 1). Garment tactility is important to the wearer and a pleasant tactile experience during the use situation is one attribute fbr enjoyable long-term use of clothing.Table I: Attributes that enable longevity in clothingTheattributesthatenablelongevityinclothingarethefbllowing:Quality:D

43、urablematerialsDurability inuseDurabilityinlaunderingHigh manufacturingqualityFunctionality:Easy maintenanceSuitability 泌 tke use situation (physiological aid psychological suitability)Satisfying use experienceAestheticattributesBeauty, style, colour, fitExpressive beauty above averageTactile experi

44、enceComfortable materialsValues:PiroductNot only quality, functionality and aesthetics are important attributes; the values behind the product are also important to consumer satisfaction. Clothing choices must connect strongly with the wearer 5 s sei仁image, identity and values. Wang and Wallendorf (

45、2006) have argued that consumers with high materialistic values seek novelty and evaluate their possessions more often than consumers with lower materialistic values. They also highlight that materialistic consumers have less appreciation fbr deeper person-product relationships that develop during l

46、onger use situations. Consumers materialistic values may also connect with social status-related elements in garments and possessions. Consumers with lower materialistic values may have greater appreciation fbr the personal meanings attributable to the product that emerge during long-term use (Wang

47、& Wallendorf 2006). Consumers with high environmental and ethical interests place high importance on being able to find environmental value behind a product. These consumers respect credence quality attributes 一 local and ethical production, eco-materials and long garment life spans 一 and they want

48、to see these attributes and environmental values in the products they purchase. The value aspect is most important and consumers value expectations should be fulfilled to create deep product satisfaction (Niinimaki 2011).Fashion Design for Sustainable SatisfactionHow can a designer offer sustainable

49、 satisfaction to the consumer and how can s/he propose a prolonged use time of the product to the consumer? Firstly identifying the attributes associated with satisfaction and including them in the design is the most important strategy. Secondly identifying the determinants that lead to dissatisfaction helps the designer to avoid these elements in design and concentrate on design fbr sustainable satisfaction. The previous section described the satisfaction elements i