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1、精选优质文档-倾情为你奉上服装设计外文翻译CoutureSewing Technique Claire B.Shaeffer Printed UnitedStates originallypublished TauntonPress,Inc. Chapter4.Edge Finishes Hems,Facings BindingsUnless finished someway, garmentravel lookincomplete. edgestheneckline; verticalfront edges jackets,coats manyblouses; jackets canbeco
2、me distinctive, decorative elements design.Threefinishes usedextensively couture:hems,facings edgefinish depends manythingsthe shape edgebeing finished; its position type,design garment;current fashion trends; individualwearer bottomedge asymmetrical,curved, scalloped otherwiseunusually shaped, faci
3、ng.Even when twodifferent edges requireslightly different finishes tailoredgarment would require very different finishing from eveninggown, even similar designs vorked dissimilarfabrics would dictate finishes suitable eachfabric. Although hems, facings alledge finishes, each has slightlydifferent fu
4、nction. Hems generallyused loweredges garmentsection manyhelp garmenthang attractively addingweight edge.Facings, otherhand, verticaledges garments.Bindings can upper,lower verticaledges, theyreused most often replacefacings rather than hems. Facings can separatesections finishcurved shapededges. wh
5、enused onlyslightly curved, nothingmore than widehem allowance, whichcase theyre called extended facings. Both hems onlyone sideusually garment.Bindings, separatestrips garmentedge finishboth sides garmentattractively. Because materialstakes backseat desiredresults, edges alwaysfinished simplestmeth
6、od onemost often used ready-to-wearconstruction homesewing. Whatever finishingmethod, hems, facings bindingscan sewnentirely machinework. handwork visible finishedproduct, however, handwork used traditionalcouture garment. FACINGS Facings, like hems, garment.Unlike hems, which hang free garmentshang
7、 more than its overall shape, faced edges frequently fit bodyscurves subtlyaffect garmentssilhouette. Used garmentopenings, curved edges shapededges like jacket lapels, facings contribute significantly overallimpression well-constructedgarment. threetypes facings:extended, shaped bias.Two biasfacing
8、sare cut separately from sewnfrom self-fabric lightweightlining fabrics. extendedfacing garmentsection like plainhem course,self-fabric. extendedfacing nothingmore than 2-in.hem sewnexactly like plainhem (see pp. 63-64). When garmentedge length-wisegrain, extendedfacing duplicates slightcurve, facin
9、gcant duplicate mayhave eased,stretched edgesmoothly. extendedfacing usedextensively couturebecause foldededge moresupple than seamededges biasfacings consequentlydrapes better. Edges extendedfacings generallyinterfaced stabilizedso originalshape itsname suggests, shapedfacing ususllyduplicates ofte
10、nused edgesintended crisp,constructed look, alwaysused intricatelyshaped edges like scallopedhem. biasfacing stripcut truebias. Because doesntduplicate facingmust itself edge.Bias facings madefrom lightweight fabrics producenarrow, inconspicuous facings. cousture,more than one type oftenused singleg
11、arment singleedge. pinkgazar dress shown above, example,has extended facings frontneckline backopening shapedfacings frontneckline backopening shapedfacings backneckline. Similarly, p.60has shapedfacing upperhalf frontedge extendedfacing lowerhalf edge.Before applying any kind facing,examine garment
12、sfit determinewhether edgeneeds staytape (see pp. 49-50) interfaced(see 68).Once youve handled youcan proceed facingyouve chosen. SHAPED FACINGS Shaped facings can machine.Both types couture,while only machine applications machineapplication course,faster, sometimesmore difficult facingso fitssmooth
13、ly, sometimesvisible garmentedge. instructionsbelow applyingshaped facings machine,refer yourfavorite sewing manual.) directionsfocus necklinefacings because theyre most frequently used coutureworkrooms. However, directionscan otheredges waistbands,armholes, applied pockets, collars garmentlinings.
14、facingcan madeany time after neckedge stabilizedappropriately design.Facings can cutfrom originalgarment pattern edgewasnt changed during fittingprocess, garmentitself can serve pattern.When thread-tracedneckline can correspondingstitching line finishedneckline can also guidewhen youre applying hand
15、.Neck facings can severalshapes. Two mostpopular traditionalcirclular shape, which measures evendistance all around from rectangularshape, which extends armscyeseams. When largershape facingedges can seamlines,holding them smooth facingshadow may also lessobtrusive largershape, depending obviousdisa
16、dvantage additionalfabric introduced shoulderarea, which may give bulkyappearance. One solution reducingsome seamlines1/2 originalpositions. alwaysaligned correspondinggarment seamlines, homesewing. lessfamiliar rectangular facing. caneasily circularfacing, Start selectingsome scraps from your garme
17、nt fabric backfacings unless whichcase use lighter,firmly woven material facings.Rectangular pieces preferablebecause yourecutting rectangularfacing high,round neckline back,begin onelarge rectangle about 16 frontfacing twosmaller ones about backfacings. When applying garmentedge before making facin
18、gso youcan use finished,do so before starting freeedge lieflat. Trim seamallowance around garmentneck wrongside. Baste generous1/5 seamallowances tendency curlaround neck,snip shallow cuts rawedge every inch necklineseam allowance lie flat(as shown wrongside up, place necklineover pressingcushion pr
19、essjust necklineedge. yourfingers, gently try rawedge. necessary,trim edgefurther firmlywoven fabrics lessstabble fabrics. seamallowance still doesnt lie flat, clip rawedge short,closely spaced snips up bastingstitches around neckedge. Use loosecatchstitch seamallowance garmenthas neither, sew caref
20、ully so stitchesdo rightside garment.Cut eachsection faced.Before proceeding, decide whether relacating shoulderseams bulk.After relacating youdecide doso, begin wrongsides together, grainlinestogether centerfront itsfacing. garmentneckline curved, whenworn, smooth place,pinning yougo. When you get
21、shoulderseams, smooth frontfacing over seamsso seamallowances flat.Pin trimaway shoulderseams neckedgd, leaving 1/2-in. seam allowances shownabove. Pin backfacing(s) shoulderseams,trim rawedges under, shownabove. point,you can machine-stitch shoulderseams. neckline,trim away excess,leaving 1/2-in.se
22、am allowance.Turn under rawedge so garmentsseam allowance. necessary,clip turnunder smoothly shallowcurves, you can turn back neckedge presslightly. Using fellstitch slipstitch,sew neckedge shoulderseams werentmachine-stitched. Remove presslightly. BIAS FACINGS biasfacing narrowstrip fabriccut trueb
23、ias shaped,rather than cut, faces.Well adapted softedges, frequentlyused lightweightsilk cottonfabrics. couturework-rooms, most bias facings hand.Generally, self-fabric sewnfrom light-weight fabric, heavy,lining material can usedinstead. Bias facings lessconspicuous than shaped facings, requireless
24、fabric, theyre both more comfortable wearnext moreeconomical twodisadvantages facings,however. When biasfacing garmentedge rarelyinterfaced biasfacing usuallyslipstitched sometimesdifficult stitchesfrom showing garment.Most bias facings finishedso theyre about 1/2 jewelneckline skirt.Generally, bias
25、facing, moredifficult curvededge. Before applying biasfacing, finish garmentedge. Fold seamallowance wrongside baste1/8 edge.Clip edgelie flat. wrongside up, press edge.Measure garmentedge biasstrip several inches longer, joinseveral strips lengthyou need. 11/2-in.wide facing, stripshould straighted
26、ges 11/2in.wide curvededges. Fold one longedges under 1/4 bestaccomplished onetime foldededge yourhands 1-in.pleats so stayfolded without pressing, which might stretch wrongside up wrongside biasstrip wrongside foldedgarment edge, aligning biasedge basting,1/8 garmentedge. Pin bias,easing stripuntil
27、 edgesmoothly, baste.Place edgeover pressingcushion rightside up. Cover presscloth carefullypress just biasstrip. facingshoule lie smoothly against wrongside doesnt,release tryagain. Using fellstitch, sew seamallowance. Trim biasso even3/4 freeedge, fole under1/4 baste.Using veryfine needle, sew loo
28、seslipstitch fellstitch. backed,catch garment.Remove presslightly. When applying biasfacing necklinewithout opening,begin leftshoulder seam worktoward frontneckline(this mostdifficult part thereforetackled first). biasfacing armscye,begin underarm.Finish foldingone end biaswrong sides together lengt
29、hwisegrain. Lightly crease yourthumbnail. Fold otherend under so foldededges match. foldstogether. BINDINGS elegantfinish suitable nearlyevery edge,a binding can contrastingfabiric texture,add dash yourgarment. Bindings rightside edge,wrapping underside.Often finished so theyre attractive wrongside garment,bindings专心-专注-专业