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1、Chapter 4 Aroma Characteristics&Aroma Analysis of WineWine TastingBy Prof.Yanlin Liu李华，葡萄酒品尝学，科学出版社，2006.pp3167EmilePeynaud：TheTasteofWineTheArtandScienceofWineAppreciation.MichaelSchustertranslated.UnitedStates:TheWineAppreciationGuild(Publishers)LTD.,1987，pp4564ReadingassignmentChap.4AromaCharacte
2、risticsandAromaAnalysisofWinelResearchadvanceofwinearoma葡萄酒的香气研究概要lCharactersofwinearoma葡萄酒的香气特点lAromasubstancesofwine葡萄酒的呈香物质lClassificationofwinearomas葡萄酒的香气分类lTastingtechniqueAromaanalysis品尝技术香气分析lTastingwordsAroma品尝词汇关于香气的描述Research advance of wine aroma葡萄酒香气研究概要葡萄酒香气研究概要lDevelopmentofanalysisin
3、struments分析仪器的发展lQualiquantitativeanalysisofodor气味物质的定性定量分析lOdorsubstancesandqualityoffragrance呈香物质与香气质量lOdorconsistencyandqualityoffragrance香气浓度与香气质量lInteractionofOdorsubstances呈香物质的相互作用lElectronicnose电子鼻GC-sniffGC-sniffGC-sniffAromaCharacteristicsifWine葡萄酒香气的特点葡萄酒香气的特点lRichness丰富性lVariability变化性lC
4、omplexity复杂性lMaterialityandimmateriality有形与无形lMystery神秘性lneitherstablenorpersistent.Instability不稳定性unnpersistent非持续性lStateofdissociationandcombination游离态与结合态lApperceiveandcharacterization香气的感知与描述Smelll200-800 aromatics in winelTo smell anything,it must be in a gaseous state to reach our receptor cel
5、ls,dissolved in the mucous lining粘液外膜 and stimulate nerve endingsldifference in smelling an odor is between exposure from the air and exposure from a liquid(wine glass design)Smelllin order to smell,we must breathe in more than normall20%of all available odors reach receptors during normal breathing
6、lonly 2%actually gets through the nose to reach the sensory patchSmelllremember to maintain the same techniques always in regards to breathing in deeply for assessmentltrying to avoid fatigue on the senses by spacing out intake of the odor Smelllhumans have the ability to detect 10,000 different odo
7、rslthis ability is linked by our health,our own individual response level,environmental factorsldifference in perception can vary by a factor as much as 1 hundred thousand from person to person Olfactory signalslThesenseofsmellrecognizesandclassifiesvolatileproductsonlyiftheyaresolubleintheolfactory
8、mucosa粘膜andhaveasmell.lOdorsareonlydetectedinagasstate.lOlfactorysensationsareneitherstablenorpersistent.ODOUR-BEARING SUBSTANCESlWhenyoupourwineintoaglassthereisabalanceinthedistributionofvolatilemoleculesbetweenthoseinaliquidandthoseinagasphase.lThisbalancedependsonthesubstancesvolatilitycoefficie
9、nt系数,ontheevaporativesurfaceanditsrateofrenewalandalsoontemperature.ODOUR-BEARING SUBSTANCESlAlcoholslAldehydecompounds醛类化合物lFattyacidslEsterslOrganicacidlPhenolicsubstances(Polyphenols)andterpene萜烯类AlcoholslAlcoholswiththelargestmoleculesarethemostaromaticofall.lParadoxically,itisthelightestsubstan
10、cesthataretheleastvolatile.呈香物质(气味物质)气味物质即给我们以嗅觉刺激的物质。不同种类、不同浓度的气味物质以不同的比例组合起来，就构成了千变万化的气味。目前已鉴定出葡萄酒中的呈香物质，其分别归属于醇类、酯类、有机酸、羰基化合物、酚类、萜烯类化合物。呈香物质呈香物质（一）醇类乙醇、丙醇、丁醇、异丁醇、戊醇、己醇、庚醇、辛醇、苯甲醇、月桂醇、甘油呈香物质呈香物质(二二)酯类酯类葡萄酒中的酯类物质是酵母发酵的副产物。酯类的气味类似水果香气（如香蕉）、化学品（如指甲油）及酸味糖果等的气味。乙酸异戊酯：强烈的水果香气，似香蕉味、梨的甜酸味；辛酸乙酯：令人愉快的花果香气，杏子
11、香气；已酸乙酯：强烈的菠萝、香蕉的香气。呈香物质呈香物质(三三)有机酸有机酸 除少部分挥发性有机酸来源于葡萄浆果外，葡萄酒中大部分有机酸则主要是发酵的副产物，由脂肪酸引起的香气则较为稳定，其气味类似肥皂、蜡烛和硬脂精等，低碳酸（如甲酸、乙酸、丙酸、丁酸、戊酸、异戊酸等）往往尖酸、刺激、不愉快。呈香物质呈香物质(四四)羰基化合物羰基化合物 乙醛乙醛丙醛丙醛异丁醛：香蕉味、甜瓜味、绿叶味异丁醛：香蕉味、甜瓜味、绿叶味茴香醛：山楂花香茴香醛：山楂花香2-丁酮：清漆味丁酮：清漆味2-己酮：酮味，干酪味己酮：酮味，干酪味桂皮醛：桂皮醛：刺鼻的药香，辣味刺鼻的药香，辣味乙偶姻：扁桃香气乙偶姻：扁桃香气呈香
12、物质呈香物质(五五)酚类和萜烯类酚类和萜烯类苯酚、甲酚、酪氨酚苯酚、甲酚、酪氨酚萜品醇：松木味，类萜烯味萜品醇：松木味，类萜烯味苦樟醇：典型的花香苦樟醇：典型的花香金合欢醇：特有的花香金合欢醇：特有的花香香叶醇：玫瑰花香气，有桃味香叶醇：玫瑰花香气，有桃味橙花醇氧化物：新鲜、甜香似玫瑰香气橙花醇氧化物：新鲜、甜香似玫瑰香气 香味物质解析香味物质解析l名称名称 香味特性香味特性 含量含量(毫克毫克/升升)l乙酸乙酯使酒发酸变味，有刺激性4.5190l乙酸异戍酯香焦味、熟瓜香味、酸果糖味0.156.1l醋酸苯乙酯玖瑰花茶味0.25.1l苯乙醇玖瑰花香19183l苯乙醛，乙基苯醇茉莉花茶香0.150
13、l辛酸乙酯.癸酸乙酯肥皂、蜡烛味0.96l己酸乙酯苹果、香焦香味1.5l牦牛儿醇玖瑰花香0.05l十一烷酸内酯桃子香味0.11.2l香草缩醛香子兰香味0.25l乙醛苹果香、清凉感0.120香味物质解析香味物质解析 名称名称 香味特性香味特性 量量(毫克毫克/升升)l已醇生青树叶子味315l异丁醇植物草味、有热感28170l辛醇蘑菇气味18l异戊醇花蕊香气520l丁酰化物塑料溶剂气味0.01l丁酸乙酯焦臭、奶酪臭0.0410l丁酸油漆味0.4l苯乙烯溶剂味0.1微量物质微量物质（零点几至几十毫克）零点几至几十毫克）l苯乙酸蜂蜜香l乙偶烟扁桃（巴旦杏味）l茴香醛山楂花香l苯乙醛苦杏仁香l肉桂醛桂皮
14、辛香l苯丙醛丁香花香l氰醇苯甲醛草莓香l丁二酮 榛子、奶油香l甘草醛甘草香l己二烯醇老鹳草、天竺葵气味l己烯醇、己烯醛青草气味l里那醇 玖瑰木香l里那醇氧化物樟脑气味l胡椒醛刺槐、天芥菜味l甲基邻氨基苯酯桔子香、很浓花蕊香THE CLASSIFICATION OF ODOURSlTheolfactorysenseisextremelysensitive.lOurolfactorysensitivitytomanychemicalsubstancesfarexceedsthatoflaboratoryreagents.THE CLASSIFICATION OF ODOURSlTherehaveb
15、eenmanyattemptsatodorclassification.lTheoneweshallintrocucehasten.listingthoseodorsregularlyencounteredinwines:animal,balsamic香脂,woody,chemical,spicy,empyreumatic烧焦的,ester,floral,fruityandvegetal.Animal smelllTheanimalgroupofsmellsrefersontheonehandtothemuskycharacterofsomearomaticgrapevarietiesando
16、ntheothertothesmellsofmeat,evengamethatonefindsinsomeoldwines.Balsamic and woody lThebalsamicgroup(fromthewordbalm)comprisesthoseodorsrelatedtopine,resinandincense薰香smellslThewoodygrouptothosederivingfromtheevolutionoftanninsorfromoakstoragecasks.Chemical odors and ester group lChemicalodorscomefrom
17、aceticacidandhydrogensulphide,forexample.lTheestergroupconsistsofsmellsrelatedtoaceticesters(ethylestersandtheestersofhigheralcohols)andtotheestersoffattyacids,allbyproductsofalcoholicfermentation.Spicy bouquet and empyreumatic group lAspicybouquetissometimesfoundincertainfinewines.lTheempyreumaticg
18、roupareburnt,smoky,roastedodors.lFloral,fruityandvegetalcategoriesaremorecommonlyinyoungthaninoldwines.lLimeblossom,rose,andvineflowers,blackcurrant,raspberryandpeach,grassyandherbysmells,areallsmellsregularlyencounteredinthewidelyvariedaromasofwine.Floral,fruity and vegetalOLFACTORY MEASUREMENTlThe
19、onlymeanswehaveofmeasuringtheodorofanysubstanceisaphysiologicaloneusingourownsenseofsmellastheapparatus.The aromas of wines are usually compared to aromas in naturelFlowersInwhitewines,springtimewildflowers,andinredstheperfumesofthemorestronglycoloredflowers(rose,violetetc.)lFruitApricot,banana,appl
20、e,lemonandpineappleinwhitewines;strawberry,raspberry,peachandcherryinredwinesThe aromas of wines are usually compared to aromas in naturelDried fruit and nutsUsuallythesmellofdriedfruitappearswithage.Toastedalmondsinwhites,driedfigsinreds.lSweet flavoringVanilla,aniseedlHerbs and leavesFreshmint,pin
21、e,tobaccolToastedToast,coffee,cocoa,teaThe aromas of wines are usually compared to aromas in naturelSpices and herbsPepperlaurel,cinnamon,cloves,nutmeg,thyme,basil,juniperTruffleslFood and drinkBeerbutterciderhoneycognaclOther aromasLeatheramberanimalTHE CLASSIFICATION OF ODORS8(一)动物气味animal(二)香脂气味b
22、alsam(三)烧焦气味toast(四)化学气味chemical(ester)(五)香料气味spicy(六)花香floral(七)果香fruity(八)植物与矿物气味vegetalandmineral(woody)气味的分类香气分类是香气分析的基础气味的分类气味的分类香气分类是香气分析的基础香气分类是香气分析的基础(一)动物气味(二)香脂气味(三)烧焦气味(四)化学气味(五)香料气味(六)花香(七)果香(八)植物与矿物气味(一一)动物气味动物气味l野味（所有野兽、野禽的气味）l脂肪味l腐败（肉类）味l肉味l麝香味l猫尿味Muscatl在葡萄酒中：l主要是麝香（源与芳香型品种）l肉味、脂肪味（成
23、年老酒）l腐败味：微生物破败(二二)香脂气味香脂气味指芳香植物的香气指芳香植物的香气l所有树脂l刺柏l香子兰l松油l安息香lInwine：各种树脂的气味(三三)烧焦气味烧焦气味l烟l熏l烤l干面包l巴旦杏仁l干草l咖啡l木头l动物皮l松油l是葡萄酒成熟过程中单宁变化或溶解橡木成分形成的（焦、烟熏除外）(四四)化学气味化学气味 不同程度损坏葡萄酒的质量不同程度损坏葡萄酒的质量l酒精l丙酮l醋l酚l苯l硫l乳酸l碘l氧化l酵母l微生物(五五)香料气味香料气味包括所有用作作料的香料包括所有用作作料的香料l月桂l胡椒l桂皮l姜l干草l薄荷l存在于一些优质、陈酿时间长的红酒中(六六)花香花香 包括所有的
24、花香包括所有的花香l堇菜l山楂l玫瑰l柠檬l茉莉l椴树l葡萄l鸢尾l天竺葵l杨槐(七七)果香果香 包括所有的果香。常见的包括所有的果香。常见的有：有：覆盆子（raspberry）樱桃（cherry）草莓石榴醋栗杏桃橙（citrusfruits）苹果梨香蕉无花果核桃黑加仑子（blackcurrants）红加仑子（redcurrants）干果：氧化陈酿酒中出现(八)植物与矿物气味l主要有青草、落叶、块根、蘑菇、湿青苔、湿土、青叶等气味Aromas in white wine-essenceFruity Aromas:l1Lemonl2Grapefruitl3Pineapplel4Lycheel5M
25、uscatl6PearAromas in white wine-essenceFloral Aromas:l7Hawthorn山楂花l8HoneyVegetalaroma:l9BlackcurrantbudAnimal aroma:l10ButterToastyaromas:l11Toastl12:Roastedhazelnut榛子Aromas in red wine-essenceFruity Aromas:l1Strawberryl2Raspberryl3Blackcurrantl4Blackberryl5CherryFloral Aromas:l6VioletToasty aroma:l
26、12Smoked，coffeeAromas in red wine-essenceVegetal aromas:l7Greenpepperl8Truffle块菌l9Liquorice甘草l10Vanilla香草l11PepperTruffle世界珍味之王黑白松露世界珍味之王黑白松露 lTruffle是生长在地下，尤其是橡树根部的一种外生菌块。通常是一年生的天然真菌类植物。大约有30多种不同的truffle，产地分布在意大利，克罗地亚，法国，西班牙等国。与香槟，鱼子酱一起，被誉为世界上三大珍味之王。l在众多的种类中，更以白松露、黑松露是最美味的。由于松露对于生长环境非常挑剔，只要阳光、水量或土壤
27、的酸碱值稍有变化就无法生长，这也是为何松露如此稀有的缘故。Oak and Wine-essencel1Oak:SampleisNaturalextractofmediumtoastedoakchips.l2Greenwood:l3Coconut椰子l4Clove丁香l5Vanillapod香草Oak and Winel6Woodyspicyl7Newleatherl8Pharmaceuticalnotesl9Toastl10Furfural糠醛l11Liquorice甘草lSmokyFaults in wineCategoryl1Vegetall2Rottenapplel3Vinegarl4G
28、luel5Soapl6SulphurOrigin Harvest OxygenSulphurFaults in winel7Rotteneggl8Onionl9Cauliflower花椰菜l10Horsel11Mouldyearthyl12CorkOrigin PhenolFungiAromas-essencel1Apricotl2Acacia杨槐花l3Bitteralmondl4Pineapllel5Anise八角l6Hawthorn山楂花Aromas-essencel7Bananal8Butterl9Corkl10Cocoal11Cinnamonl12Coffeel11桂皮Aromas-e
29、ssencel13Caramell14Blackcurrantl15Cheeryl16Mushrooml17Oakl18Lemonl13焦糖l14黑加仑子Aromas-essencel19Civetl20Quincel21Sweetbriarl22Mownhayl23Fernl24Strawberryl香猫l蔷薇l禾草l蕨Aromas-essencel25Raspberryl26Smokedl27Geraniuml28Clovel29Tarl30Iodinel27天竺葵l28丁香l29柏油l30碘Aromas-essencel31Muscatl32Mintl33Mercaptanl34Hone
30、yl35Muskl36Hazelnutl33硫醇l35麝香l36榛子Aromas-essencel37Walnutl38Orangel39Peonyl40Pinel41Pearl42Pepperl42胡椒Aromas-essencel43Greenpepperl44Applel45Pluml46Licoricel47Rosel48Sulfur46甘草Aromas-essence49Thyme50Linden51Truffle52Vanilla53Violet54Vinegarl49百里香l50椴l51块菌l52香草GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMAlVinificationmayb
31、esaidtorevealtheprimaryaromaconcealedwithinthefruit,forwinesmellsmoreoffruitthanthegrapeitself.lTherearevariousexplanationsforthisphenomenon;firstlyduringmacerationthearomaticelements,containedmainlyintheskin,passintothewine.lFurthermore,fermentationservestoreleasetheodourbearingconstituentsandsotor
32、evealthelatent潜在的aromas.GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMAlSauvignonBlanchasaveryspecificsmell,floral,musky,smokywithaslightlyrawherbaceousnesssuggestingbruisedleaves,inkeepingwithitsderivationfromtheFrenchsauvage.lWhenyoubiteintothethickskinned,goldenSauvignongrapeyoucansmellthisparticularodour,albeitratherwe
33、akly;similarlythefreshlysqueezedjuiceofthegrapehasrelativelylittlesmell,andinthemouth,too,itsaromaticqualityislimited.GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMAlItisonlytwentyorthirtysecondsafterswallowingthejuicethatyousuddenlyexperienceapowerfularomaticrushatthebackofthemouthastheSauvignonfragrancereturns.lDoubtless
34、salivareactswithandreleasestheSauvignonessencewhichispresentinthegrapeinarelativelyodourlessform.GRAPE VARIETY AND AROMAlThewinemakermaynoticeanotherfactwhichisexplainedbyasimilarphenomenon,thatofhydrolysis:itsometimeshappensthataSauvignonwine,whenithasjustfinisheditsfermentation,haslittlespecificSa
35、uvignoncharacterandisdisappointingtotaste;yetamonthlateritshowswellandisremarkablyaromatic.葡萄酒的发酵是一个显香和增香过程。GRAPE VARIETY AROMAS lThearomaofPinotNoirdefiesdescriptionasdoesthatofCabernetSauvignon.Itsuggestsablendoffruits(blackcurrantandraspberry),oftensofterandsweeterbecauseitstanninislessobtrusive,
36、butitisalsomoreonedimensionalincharacter,anddevelopslessthanCabernetSauvignon.lItattainsanincomparablequalityinthepremierscruswinesoftheCtedeNuitsandCtedeBeaune;noothersiteintheworldsuitsthisgrapesowell.Itlastswellintoextremeoldage,andthewineremainsgoodforaslongasitsfruit.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlTheCha
37、rdonnaygrapehasapowerfularomaandwiderangeofstyles:itislightandlivelyinchampagnefromtheCtedesBlancs,itisfuller,morevigorousandharderinChablis,requiringfourorfiveyearsinbottletomature.lLikeredburgundies,Chardonnaysarekeptanddevelopinoakbarrelsaftermalolacticfermentation.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlWhiteburgu
38、ndyisoneoftherarewhitewines,perhapstheonlyone,whichcanstandthisfermentation.lOneotherareawhereChardonnaydoeswellisinthemountainsoftheNapaValleyinCalifornia.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlTheRieslinggrapereignssupremeintheterracedvalleysoftheRhineanditstributaries.lHereitgrowsonslopeswhoseexceptionalexposition
39、meansitcansurvivethevagariesofthecontinentalclimate.lTheRhinesrightbankissaidtoproducethefinerwines,butingoodvintagesAlsacealsoproducesgreatRieslings.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlRieslingisoneofthefournoblevarietieswhosewineshavehadaworldwidereputationformanygenerations.lTheRieslingisalsofoundinAustria,inIt
40、alyonthelower,southfacingslopesoftheAlps,inYugoslaviaanditfollowedtheAngloSaxonstoSouthAfrica,AustraliaandCalifornia.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlSweetandgentleorsharpandlively,butalwayslightanddelicate,Rieslingmakeswinesofexquisitefragrance,perfectmodelsfortodayswhites.lThereisnootherwhitegrapevarietywhose
41、bouquetvariessomuchaccordingtothesoilinwhichitisgrown.lThesmellofbroom,greenandsweet,issometimessuggestedasatouchstonefortheRieslingaroma,butitcanalsosmellofpeachblossomorthevineinflower;grownonschistintheMosel,itissomewhatsmoky,eventarry.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlInthesameregion,theRieslingissurroundedb
42、ytheSylvaner,theTraminerandthelattersmostaromaticform,theGewrztraminer.lIfthearomaofthefirstisquitestraightforward,theothertwomightbecalledsomewhatextrovertinolfactoryterms.Forthenovicetheyhavetheadvantageofbeingeasytorecognize.lThisopulenceofbouquetcancertainlybeveryappealingevenifitdoeslackfinesse
43、.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlMuscatgrapesprovidethebestillustrationforthenotionofprimaryaromabecausetheirfruitisthemosthighlyperfumedofall,andtheMuscataromahasauniversalappeal.lTheMuscataromaisalsotheonethathasbeenmostcloselystudied,andwhoseconstituentsarethebestunderstoodeventhoughtheycannotbereproducedex
44、actlybyartificialmeans.GRAPE VARIETY AROMASlItsspecificsmellisduetoterpenes,afamilyofchemicalsubstancesmainlyfoundintheessentialmisofmanyplants.lGrapejuiceandwinefromthedifferentMuscatvarietiescontain0.5to3,0mg/lofterpeneswhereasthethresholdfortheirperceptionstartsatonly0.1mg/l.lThesameterpenesareal
45、sofoundinotheraromaticvarietiessuchasRiesling,Silvaner,MllerThurgauandGewrztraminer,stillabovetheidentificationthresholdbutinmuchlowerconcentrations.AROMA AND BOUQUETlThereisoftenconfusionoverthetermsofaromaandbouquet.Somewouldsayitisonlywhite wineswhichhavearoma,andred wineswhichhavebouquet.lButitd
46、oesnotholdtrueforallwines.AtenyearoldMontrachetisallbouquet,aBeaujolaisNouveauallaroma.AROMA AND BOUQUETlItseemsbesttousearomatodesignatethesumofodourelementsinyoungwineslandtousebouquetforthesmellsacquiredthroughageing,whichdevelopgraduallyoverthecourseoftime.Primary aromalPrimaryaromaistheoriginal
47、aroma,intrinsictothegrape,extractedfromtheskinofblackgrapesandalreadypresentinthemust.lItisthescentofthefruititself,characteristicofthegrapevarietyorevenofanindividualclone.lItvariesinintensityandfinesseaccordingtothevineyard,thematurityofthegrapesandtheamountoffruitonthevine.The secondary aromalThe
48、secondaryaroma,whichevolvesduringthecourseoffermentation,istheintenselyvinoussmelldevelopedasaresultofyeastactivity,whosevolatilecharactersaturatesthevatroomatharvesttime.lThephenomenonhasbeencalledaromatic fermentation fermentation.lIntheendthesmellofayoungwineisablendofaromascombiningthoseofthegra
49、pevarietyitselfandthoseproducedduringthecourseoffermentation.Tertiary aromalThereis,aboveall,withageanintensificationofsmellandanincreasingcomplexitybroughtaboutbytransformationwithinthewineandbyanaccumulationofnewcompounds.lItsdevelopmentduringtheageingprocessisverylikelydue,inpartatleast,totheelem
50、entsofbothprimaryandsecondaryaroma,andtherearesomewhocallitthetertiaryaroma.lTheultimateharmonyofabouquetisonlyacquiredwiththepassageoftimeandcanberecognizedonthenoseasparticularlyharmoniousandmellow.lOnlyfinewineshavethepotentialtoprogressfromaromatobouquet,othersaresaidnottoage,nottobouquet.Bouque