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1、ITSAPT1 1Recent and future developments in European Standardisation concerning testing of multifunctional textiles Lus AlmeidaDepartment of Textile EngineeringSchool of Engineering University of Minho Guimares-PORTUGAL2005-11-15ITSAPT2 2Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaINTRODUCTIONEuropean Standardisation ha
2、s assumed an important role especially after the emergence of the Single European Market in 1993.Unlike ISO standards,CEN standards are to be compulsory adopted by all the CEN members(even if the country has voted against).ITSAPT3 3Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaINTRODUCTIONMembers of the European Committe
3、e of Standardisation(CEN)at present are:All the 25 European Union membersSwitzerland,Iceland and NorwayAffiliated members:Albania,Bulgaria,Croatia,Romania,the former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Turkey.ITSAPT4 4Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaINTRODUCTIONThere are about 300 Technical Committees within
4、 CEN.Within textiles,the most relevant are:CEN/TC162 Protective clothing including hand and arm protection and life jacketsCEN/TC248 Textiles and textile productsIn this presentation,the main emphasis will be given on CEN/TC248.ITSAPT5 5Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248CEN/TC248 has been created in
5、1990.CEN/TC248 has been created in 1990.The scope of CEN/TC248 is:Standardization of the following g aspects of textiles,textile products and textile components of products:1)test methods;2)terms and definitions;3)specifications and classifications;4)equipment relevant for the testing and use of tex
6、tiles.ITSAPT6 6Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248Since its creation,a total of 17 plenary meetings took place.276 European Standards have already been developed and published since 1990.195 of these standards were adopted simultaneously by CEN and ISO,under the Vienna Agreement.ITSAPT7 7Luis AlmeidaL
7、uis AlmeidaCEN/TC248StructureSecretariatChairpersonSecretaryBSIMr F.MooreMr T.BellamyITSAPT8 8Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248working groupsITSAPT9 9Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248One of the major tasks for CEN/TC248 is the development of an European sizing system for clothes.Two mandates from th
8、e European Commission have also recently been allocated to CEN/TC248:Flammability of nightwearSafety of childrens clothing.ITSAPT1010Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9In 1994,CEN/TC248 has created an working group called“Prioritization of research topics”,with the following scope:“Establishment o
9、f priorities in terms of needs of research,in order to apply for possible funding of projects in the field of the EC Programme SMT(Standards,Measuring and Testing)through dedicated call for proposals.ITSAPT1111Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9Several projects have been analysed by CEN/TC248/WG9
10、and later submitted to CEN/STAR for publication of“dedicated calls”for pre-and co-normative research.The following projects have been financed under the 4th and 5th EU Framework Programmes for R&D:ITSAPT1212Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9Burning behaviour of curtains and drapes:flame spread me
11、asurement using a large ignition source Development of standards for testing the launderability of textile items in wet cleaning systems and drycleanability of textile items hydrocarbon solvents-Machine testITSAPT1313Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9Two other dedicated calls have been published
12、Two other dedicated calls have been published in 2001:in 2001:Identification and quantification organic flame Identification and quantification organic flame retardant components on textile materialsretardant components on textile materialsAntibacterial and antifungal properties of textile Antibacte
13、rial and antifungal properties of textile materialsmaterialsUnfortunately,the projects presented to the call,Unfortunately,the projects presented to the call,although rated quite well,have not been although rated quite well,have not been financed,due to budget cuttings.financed,due to budget cutting
14、s.ITSAPT1414Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9Many other projects have been discussed;some of them have lead to new standard methods,such as:Verification of the detection limits of certain arylamines derived from azodyestuffs using chromatographic methods.Test method for assessment of UV protecti
15、ve properties of textiles.ITSAPT1515Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9In 1999 the scope of WG9 has been redefined as:To define research needs in support of ongoing(co-normative)and future(pre-normative)standardisation and to prioritise them in line with the guidelines of CEN/TC248 Business Plan.I
16、TSAPT1616Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9Since 2003,WG9 started to give more emphasis Since 2003,WG9 started to give more emphasis on the development of new areas of on the development of new areas of standardisation.standardisation.WG9 has then proposed a new strategy for the WG9 has then prop
17、osed a new strategy for the future standardisation activities,namely in the future standardisation activities,namely in the area of area of high added value textile productshigh added value textile products,including for instance including for instance health carehealth care and and well beingwell b
18、eing,multifunctional textilesmultifunctional textiles,interactive textilesinteractive textiles,sustainable developmentsustainable development,etc.,etc.ITSAPT1717Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9A link with the EU promoted MAXIQUEST project has been established.MAXIQUEST-Maximising Quality and Ef
19、ficiency of Standards through Normative RITSAPT1818Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9After an enquiry made in 2004,it was found that After an enquiry made in 2004,it was found that there are no relevant national standards which there are no relevant national standards which describe appropriate t
20、est methods in the area of describe appropriate test methods in the area of new functional textiles,including:new functional textiles,including:cosmeto-textilescosmeto-textileselectrostatic and electromagnetic barrier textileselectrostatic and electromagnetic barrier textilesrelaxing or massaging te
21、xtilesrelaxing or massaging textilesthermoregulatory textiles,etc.thermoregulatory textiles,etc.ITSAPT1919Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCEN/TC248/WG9In 2004 it was decided to create a Task Group“COSMETO-TEXTILES”,to study the development of test methods for the effectiveness,toxicity,durability and chemic
22、al analysis of textiles with cosmetic properties.This group,convened by Robert Biguet(IFTH),has had two meetings in 2005 and arrived to the following conclusions:ITSAPT2020Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesDefinition of COSMETOTEXTILE:Textile product with cosmetic properties.Examples of cosmeto
23、textiles:ITSAPT2121Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesMoisturisingSlimmingPerfumeEnergizingRefreshingRelaxingVitalisingUV protection.ITSAPT2222Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesAspect to be considered in future standard(s):Chemical analysisEfficiency of the productToxicity of the productDur
24、ability of the productLabelling of the cosmetotextile,information to be providedITSAPT2323Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesChemical AnalysisThe cosmetic formula is covered by cosmetics industry test methods.The means of fixing the cosmetic to the textile(microencapsulation,binder,cyclodextrin,
25、etc)is a textile property however,all additives have to comply with the cosmetics directive.ITSAPT2424Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesToxicityCosmetic products are again covered by the directive.Textile finishing has to be considered.The whole system needs to be looked at.ITSAPT2525Luis Almei
26、daLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesEfficiencyIt is a feature of the cosmetic productIt might be that a special method,relative to cosmetotextiles,needs to be developed rather than utilise a cosmetic test method.ITSAPT2626Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesDurabilityDurability of the active ingredient
27、on the textile of the active ingredient on the textilee.g.e.g.how how many many wash wash(or(or dry dry clean)clean)wear wear cycles cycles can the product withstand.can the product withstand.Issues Issues such such as as rubbing,rubbing,sweating sweating and and heat heat need need to be considered
28、.to be considered.As As durability durability(presence)(presence)of of the the cosmetic cosmetic is is totally totally textile textile related related this this parameter parameter can can be be addressed addressed immediately for standardisation.immediately for standardisation.Durability Durability
29、 of of the the effect effect of of the the cosmetic cosmetic is is a a more more difficult subject.difficult subject.ITSAPT2727Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaCosmetotextilesEnvironmental AspectsEnvironmental AspectsIt It is is not not yet yet clear clear which which environmental environmental aspects aspe
30、cts need to be considered.need to be considered.Components Components before before application application are are the the concern concern of either cosmetic or chemical directives.of either cosmetic or chemical directives.Aspects Aspects during during and and at at the the end end of of the the te
31、xtile textile products life should be considered.products life should be considered.However,However,environmental environmental aspects aspects are are considered considered to be less critical than the other four criteria.to be less critical than the other four criteria.ITSAPT2828Luis AlmeidaLuis A
32、lmeidaCosmetotextilesIn the last meeting of CEN/TC248 in Vilnius,it has been agreed to create a new working group to develop a new standardWG25 Cosmeto-textilesA call for experts is now open.The first meeting will take place in Paris in February/March 2006.ITSAPT2929Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaUV protec
33、tionUV protection can be considered as a success in terms of European Standardisation.In fact,within CEN/TC248 two standards have been developed which include:Definition and test methodLabelling.This method is expected to be adopted as EN ISO standard.ITSAPT3030Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaElectrostatic
34、properties of textiles In In 2005,2005,a a survey survey about about the the electrostatic electrostatic propertiesproperties of of textiles textiles has has been been made made by by Fred Fred Foubert(Centexbel).Foubert(Centexbel).It It was was found found that that this this subject subject is is
35、already already extensively covered by:extensively covered by:CEN/TC CEN/TC 162 162-protective protective clothing clothing against against accumulation of electrostatic chargesaccumulation of electrostatic charges CENELEC CENELEC TC TC 78 78-risks risks of of working working with with live live ele
36、ctrical installationselectrical installationsIEC/TC IEC/TC 101 101-electrostatic electrostatic properties properties of of all all kinds kinds of of productsproducts methods methods for for garments garments and and for for floor floor coverings are being developed.coverings are being developed.ITSA
37、PT3131Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaElectrostatic properties of textiles It was concluded that:Electrostatic properties of textiles are not a suitable work area for CEN/TC 248In terms of conductive properties of textiles in view of new uses such as“smart textiles”,further studies should be madeA study on
38、this subject will be developed in 2006.ITSAPT3232Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaThermoregulatory properties of textiles A A survey survey about about the the Thermoregulatory Thermoregulatory propertiesproperties of textiles has also been made in 2005.of textiles has also been made in 2005.The The followin
39、g following test test methods methods exist exist in in the the area area of of textiles:textiles:EN 31092:1994 Textiles Determination of EN 31092:1994 Textiles Determination of physiological properties.Measurement of physiological properties.Measurement of thermal and water-vapour resistance under
40、thermal and water-vapour resistance under steady-state conditions(sweating guarded-steady-state conditions(sweating guarded-hotplate test)hotplate test)EN ISO 15831:2004 Clothing-Physiological EN ISO 15831:2004 Clothing-Physiological effects-Measurement of thermal insulation by effects-Measurement o
41、f thermal insulation by means of a thermal manikinmeans of a thermal manikinITSAPT3333Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaThermoregulatory properties of textiles The The following following test test methods methods exist exist in in the the area area of of footwear:footwear:EN 12784:1999 Footwear-Test methods
42、for EN 12784:1999 Footwear-Test methods for whole shoe-Thermal insulation whole shoe-Thermal insulation EN 13521:2001 Footwear-Test methods for EN 13521:2001 Footwear-Test methods for uppers,lining and insocks-Thermal insulationuppers,lining and insocks-Thermal insulationEN ISO 20344:2005 Personal p
43、rotective EN ISO 20344:2005 Personal protective equipment-Test methods for footwear(includes equipment-Test methods for footwear(includes a test method for insulation against cold)a test method for insulation against cold)ITSAPT3434Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaThermoregulatory properties of textiles It I
44、t was was concluded concluded that that existing existing test test methods methods are are quite quite complicated complicated and and mainly mainly related related to to protective clothing or footwear.protective clothing or footwear.The The development development of of simpler simpler test test
45、methods methods can can be be a a relevant relevant and and interesting interesting topic topic to to be be further further developed within CEN/TC248.developed within CEN/TC248.A A more more detailed detailed survey survey of of existing existing test test methods,methods,namely namely for for foot
46、 foot wear wear and and also also of of national national or or non non standardised test methods should be made.standardised test methods should be made.Similarly Similarly to to the the cosmetic cosmetic properties,properties,a a special special“Task“Task Group”Group”has has been been created,crea
47、ted,which which will will start start its activities in 2006.its activities in 2006.ITSAPT3535Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaChemical analysis of textilesEspecially in view of detection of harmful substances,it is very important to have standard methods for extraction of chemicals from textiles.Aspects to
48、be standardised include sampling and extraction methods.ITSAPT3636Luis AlmeidaLuis AlmeidaChemical analysis of textilesTwo Two important important standards standards have have been been developed developed within within CEN/TC248 CEN/TC248 in in 2003,2003,related related to to the the EU EU Directi
49、ve Directive that that forbids forbids the the use use of of certain certain azo azo dyestuffs:dyestuffs:EN EN 14362 14362-Textiles Textiles-Methods Methods for for the the determination determination of of certain certain aromatic aromatic amines amines derived from azo colorantsderived from azo co
50、lorantsPart Part 1:1:Detection Detection of of the the use use of of certain certain azo azo colorants accessible without extractioncolorants accessible without extractionPart Part 2:2:Detection Detection of of the the use use of of certain certain azo azo colorants accessible by extracting the fibr