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1、Taste is more important than anything else as far as food is concerned. Anyway, Chinese have never restricted themselves to a certain tedious food list. With their understanding of the food, Chinese are always looking for inspiration of change. Once the clouds clear up, Yao Guiwen moves the split ba
2、mboo baskets to the terrace. He and his wife spend days making the tofu balls. Some tofu has already turned yellowish, but thats far from enough. Yao has to wait several more days when it gets hard and shriveled and skin turns black, tofu has matured. The change is because of fermentation. Wang Cuih
3、ua tightly wraps the shapeless tendered tofu with gauzes and squeezes out the water, and then the tofu finally takes shape. There is no time to loose. Tresh tofu would quickly turn sour. It means that Wang has to work very quickly without any rest. A basin of charcoal fire of proper heated would be
4、the key to Yaos work in the afternoon.Jianshui in Honghe prefecture of Yunan province was named Linan in ancient times. It was once an important city in southwest china during the past 1200 years. Its brilliance has gradually faded with the pass of time, just like many other towns. In Yunnan Jianshu
5、i is a multi-ethnic settlement. Different cultures have merged here contouring a unique atmosphere. The tough tofu quickly inflated in the heat of the charcoal fire. It reminds people of the fermented flour. People of Jianshui like enjoying this special air dried and fermentative flavor. People can
6、enjoy the tofu with various sauces, but for Yao, the texture of tofu is the most important. Tofu easily ferments in the warm weather of river valley area, and mildly dry, and preventive for rotting. Yao is more sensitive than any one else to the subtle relationships between wind, water, sunshine and
7、 of course tofu. This is the famous Daban well of Jianshui beside the well, women set up a production line of tofu by just using their fingers. Water is a necessity in every procedure of making tofu. With the total of 128 wells in Jianzhou, local residents are well versed with water. The Chinese bel
8、ieve that water nourishes the spirit and mind the people just like water to tofu. The common points speak for themselves.Shiping county, Yunnan. The ancient town of Shiping is less than 40 kilometers from Jianshui. Tofu here has a completely different look. The finished product isshockingly big, but
9、 it usually tenacious and it almost does not crumble. The dash of salt can best preserve the tofus freshness. Yunan has never been a major soybean production area but it does have a long history of making tofu. “One corn for one piece of tofu” There is an tacit agreement between the buyer and the se
10、ller. “Four yuan for another two pieces” For the past three decades, Yaos tofu stall has never been quiet. It takes half an hour to walk from the stall to home and Yao has to go across almost the entire town. The rapid development has changed many aspects of Jianshui. As time goes by, some variables
11、 have disappeared, and others altered. New ones are also added, but there are some that stand the test of time and still remain. The Yaos life settled on tofu is virtually hard. The biggest wish of the husband is to fish in a big lake far away.Wang Cuihua: you have no merits but only shortcomings ve
12、ry lazy and clumsy Yao: you are perfectTo the couple every piece of tofu is precious. It helps them to support their children and sustain a stable and happy family life. Over the last 1000 years, with rounds of northern immigration, tofu, the reprehensive of central Chinas food culture has taken roo
13、ts in the abundant land on the southwest border and develops an unique disposition. The production details remind us the hinterland of central china for its thousands of miles away there. There, from birth to prosperity, tofu has enjoyed a history of 2000 years.Hu Xuebing is on his way to the county
14、 town. He needs to sell his tofu at the morning market. Shouxian County is an old little town in the north Anhui province, people there has a special attachment to tofu. They believe their ancestors invented the great tofu. In middle October, soybeans in north Anhui have already been ripped and stor
15、ed tofu made with newly harvested soybeans has always been the most popular in Chinas thousands years old history of agriculture. Soybean has long occupied an important position among the well-known legumes. Soybean is the richest in protein. So for the cheapest sustenance, but it was once in an awk
16、ward position. Cooked soybeans failed to wet peoples appetite and to make matters worse caused flatulence people urgently need to find the best way to consume soybeans.The white power on scale is gypsum, the key to turn soy milk into tofu. Hu Xuebing can use gypsum as skillfully as his ancestors.One
17、 more time?No, it will be overdone.When the denatured protein meets the gypsum, the boiling soymilk quickly coagulates. The change is so drastic that it can be see in a blink of eye in ancient days. Gypsum often appeared in secret scriptures of Chinese war locks. It is said that was how the relation
18、 between gypsum and tofu originated started.Over 2000 years ago, Liu An, the king of Huanan was addicted to alchemy when nurturing a mortal pill in soymilk. He happened to add some gypsum in it. Many people believe thats how tofu was invented, regardless of whether the reality was as dramatic as the
19、 story. Chinese must be coping for a long time before finally making tofu a great food of china. The invention of tofu however completely changes the fate of soybeans. The great flexibility tofu offers a huge space for the imagination of the Chinese well-known for color its skill. The disadvantages
20、of soybeans were eliminated by reason or unconsciously. As the ancient Chinese transform soybeans into tofu, the value of soybeans protein to human body reach the climax for the invention of tofu. Chinese cooks understanding of tofu will often take you by surprise. May be it is also correct to say t
21、hat the Chinese are showing their adaptability through tofu, and thus, soybean has been sublimated.The milky juice arouses many thoughts in our mind on the vast grassland of north China. The Mongolian nomads are nourished by another flowing delicacy. In late September, the green cover is fading on U
22、zemchin grassland. Mengke and his family are seizing the last days of grazing before the bitter winter arrives. The chill is felt in the late autumn of grassland; dried cow manure can make the fire burn up. Milk tea is always a must for breakfast. Brick tea, butter, stir-fired millet and fresh milk
23、are the important ingredients for making milk tea. Milk curd was made several days ago. Milk tea and curd are indispensable for people living on the grassland. They provide vitamins and minerals that cant be gained from vegetables and fruits. Grassland has the magical power to make tings simple. Mud
24、u the cattle of Mengke,is in the lactation period, to get fresh milk from the cow, Mengkes mother, has to get permission from the cow. Fresh milk no longer ferments as easily as during the warm days. The mother must hurry to make the milk curd as food reserve for the long winter. The sour cream on t
25、he surface is carefully ladled out and the cream is very precious. Fermented milk curdles protein and whey is separated when heated. The whey, though, wont be wasted as it best for feeding livestock. You have to keep stirring the juice, so that the curdled milk wont stick to the pot. When the whey i
26、s fully separated, the hot curdled milk is put into moulds. Mengke offers the fresh milk curd to his grandfather. Its the best delicacy.Heading straight south, an almost identical scene is happening in Yunnan thousands of miles away. Thick and heavy chopsticks are moved vigorously. A smooth curdled
27、“milk lump” has soon be rolled after several moves; the lump is dragged into a sheet which is then rolled up onto the bamboo rack by the wall. In far away Dali, Yunnan, a similarly method is adopted by the Bai minority to transfer milk Rushan, made from milk are hung and air dried in the yard just l
28、ike giant wind chimes. Over 800 years ago, during the reign of Kublai Khan, the expeditionary Mongolians arrived and settled in Yunnan. They brought dairy products from their home. Unexpectedly, the way to transform milk has been passed down and still prosperous even today.Mother takes the hardened
29、milk curd out of the wooden box. Dried milk curd can be preserved for an extremely long time. Meat is a luxury as livestock is so precious. Dairy products have almost become the main food on the grassland. This is a Mongolian restaurant in downtown Beijing. The mouth-watering roast lamb back is the
30、top choice for dinners here. It easily reminds us of the food lifestyle on the grassland, but to people living in the depth of the grassland, milk products are more close to their real life. Rain brings the temperatures down to freezing. Mengkes second elder sister has found the lost lamb in the bus
31、h. Lamb tock are family assets and part of the nomads life. Mengke has changed into his new winter robe. Hot tea and milk curd keep him warm, and the milk products will continually provide calories to sustain the entirely mornings herding. The telescope is the legacy of hisgrandfathers. Mengke lost
32、his father at the age of three. He learned to herd with his grandfather. His grandfather has told him that its good enough to be a qualified herdsman. Host poling in hands, Mengke threw himself on the horse, feeling full of strength.Out the grassland, herding is substituted by farming. Without the c
33、onditions for grazing cattle and sheep, people choose to cultivate the limited land. Dairy products have failed to hold this position in kitchens of central China. People living in farming culture have shifted their eyes to other plant resources to obtain precious protein. It was revolutionary for t
34、he Chinese to gain protein from plants. To the Chinese who historically had insufficient meat supply, the discovery is wisdom as well as luck. In the ancient temple of Mount Tiantai, the monks are preparing the most important meal of a day. Monk has vegetarian diet. The monastic life is poor and sim
35、ple, even dinning is a practice of Buddhism. In fact, only Han Buddhism in China includes vegetarian diet as its religious disciplines. That has deeply impact to traditional vegetarianism in China over the past 1000 years. Originating from plants, tofu can follow the strict disciplines, and it provi
36、des the best possible nutrition for the body. Soybean is the only plant food that matches meat for protein quality. So to vegetarians, its perfect despite its plainness. Chinese tofu is given a certain spiritual quality. The ancient people praised it saying tofu has merits. Those who have tofu are c
37、ontained within simple life, and those who make tofu understand as to let life take its course. The unique geological environment and mild weather in southern Anhui have form calm and conserved qualities in its people, though so produced unique food. The strange food covered with white hypha is actu
38、ally tofu. As the season for mass production has not yet arrive, the hairy tofu in Fang Xingyus shop is a rare commodity worth holding. It will be sold out before noon. The heavy hair covering tofu launches our imagination. We link it , for example, to animal, and there is indeed a life in it. The w
39、hite thin hair is the hypha of mucor, which gives tofu a new vitality. Its hard to believe how this food is actually made. Today, Fang Xingyu has handed over most of the workshop to her elder daughter. Fang has begun to associate her future of the shop with her. The surface of soybean milk gradually
40、 coagulates, which shows the soybeanis rich in oil, but to produce hairy tofu, oil is not required. Tofu skin is hung on the chopstick when air dried and become a by-product of hairy tofu. In other delicacy with a totally different texture, the key to produce hairy tofu is to add self-made “sour jui
41、ce” into soymilk for fermentation. The sour substance can make soy protein clot. Whats more important is that microorganisms flow into the milk with the pouring of sour juice. Its just like burying seeds into tofu. No matter wherever you are in China making tofu is an extremely hard work. Family mem
42、bers sit down and out and leave the dinning table in succession. The elder sister is always the last one to come. Her sister will accompany her to finish the already cold dishes.I dont want it to always work like thisI dont want it to be like mumTo the mother and the elder sister, the tofu workshop
43、has already become a major part of their lives. Fang will not make hairy tofu in the sultry summerWe cant control the fermentation of tofu in sauna daysBut in other seasons, the warm and humid environment in Huizhou makes microorganisms ferment properly. Fang hopes her daughter can learn and underst
44、and everything about making tofu. The hair is actually fungi, the index showing whether the yeast and germs are growing harmoniously. It decides the progress of fermentation and whether the final product is delicious or not. Huizhou people who are gourmets can truly appreciate hairy tofu. You can ha
45、ve it in a simple or complicated way. In the mind of old Huizhou people, a little bit of chilly sauce goes best with coal roast tofu. The interia of tofu is completely different. Mucor secretes proteinase making soy protein degrades into smaller molecules of peptones, polypeptide and amino acid. Thi
46、s series of transformations give tofu an incomparable flavor. Huizhou people call this strong flavora flavor of hometown.The small grains among the hypha are spores, and an indication of the hairy tofu is properly matured. The clever Chinese are profession in using the microorganisms. In fact, the w
47、isdom of transformation sparkled early in ancient times. Wine is probably the earliest case of how people transform food with microorganisms. Huangjiu, literally meaning yellow wine brewed from rice, is one of the oldest wine inthe world. Its the morning of Lidong, the start of winter. It has starte
48、d to drizzle in Shaoxing. Its a good sign for wine makers. Yeast favors the long but mild coldness of winter in Jiangnan, south of the lower Yangtze valley. The wine makers go in and out of the wine workshop getting ready for tributes of the sacrifice. This is the day to worship the god of wine; no
49、one dares to slight it, even the best wine maker can not ensure he can brew the best wine every year due to the capricious weather, wind, air and fungi. Every year, the sacrifice is for the wine makers to show their reverence for nature.Winter brewing is about to begin in Shaoxing, also located in the Guyuan region, Xiuning of Anhui is on the same latitude as Shaoxing. 73 years old Cheng Jingshun is busy brewing homemade glutinous rice wine. Brewing wine isnt difficult for old people. In the ab