《染发专家课程 (2).ppt》由会员分享，可在线阅读，更多相关《染发专家课程 (2).ppt（56页珍藏版）》请在taowenge.com淘文阁网|工程机械CAD图纸|机械工程制图|CAD装配图下载|SolidWorks_CaTia_CAD_UG_PROE_设计图分享下载上搜索。
1、ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsWorldofColourEmotional,sensual,inspirational,theseareafewofthewayswedefineourexperienceofandrelationshipwiththeworldofcolour.Colouraffectsourmoods,ourlanguageandourimageofourselves.Itisthiswhichintereststhehairdresser,who,empoweredwiththesuperbIGORArange
2、canchangetheworldinwhichtheirclientslive.ColourExpert染发专家Becomingasuccessfulcolourexpertrequiresacomplexbalanceof technicalandinterpersonal skills,business awarenessandprofessional judgement.Schwarzkopf Professionalprovidesthetoolsandsolutionstomakethisreality.要成为一名成功的染发专家，就必须要在人际交往技巧，商业意识和专业决断力中保持一
3、种复杂的平衡。Schwarzkopf的专业产品为之成为现实提供了工具及解决方案。ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsSessionOutline会议纲要ColourExpert染发专家1TheoryNaturalHair2GeneralProductsOxidative&DirectPigmentsProductGroupsColouringIngredients1理论天然发质2一般产品氧化和Direct染料产品组染发成分ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsSessionOutlin
4、e会议纲要ColourExpert染发专家3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColourGeneralColourWhiteHairPre-PigmentationHighLifting&BleachingPerm&ColourColourEqualisation3建议和提示矫正颜色整体颜色白头发染前打底染浅/漂染烫发和染发颜色平衡化ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsTimings时间表10:00Introduction10:15Hints&Tips-Exercise10:45Demonstration11:30Break11:
5、45Theory11:55GeneralProducts12:15Hints&Tips13:00Lunch14:00PracticalWork16:15Break16:30Summary17:00Finish10:00介绍10:15建议和提示10:45展示11:30休息11:45理论11:55普通产品12:15建议和提示13:00午饭14:00实践工操作16:15休息16:30总结17:00结束ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsAims目标Bytheendofthissessionyouwill:Haveacquiredtheneces
6、saryskills,knowledgeandtechniquesinordertosuccessfullydiagnoseandactuponarangeofhaircolouringproblems.通过本课程，您将会：获得必要的技巧，知识和技术来成功诊断和处理一定范围的染发问题。ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsObjectives目的Bytheendofthissessionyouwill:Havedevelopedandrevisedyourknowledgeofnaturalhaircolourandpigmentation
7、inordertounderstandcolouringprocessesandcorrectiveprocedures.Beabletoidentifyspecificproductgroups,outliningtheirbasicingredientsandactiononthehair.Havedevelopedsolutionsforarangeofcolouringissues;includingretentionproblems,applicationonporousorresistivehairaswellaspre-pigmentation,equalisationtipsa
8、ndmuchmore.Havepractisedarangeofcolouringsolutionsworkingwithcolouringexpertstoachievetheperfectresult.通过本课程，您将会：发展并完善关于天然发色和着色的知识，以便于更好的明白染发程序及修正步骤。能够区分特定的产品组，并大体列出它们的基本成分及对头发的作用。开发解决一系列染发问题的方案；包括褪色问题，多孔性和抗拒性头发的应用问题，染前打底以及平衡化提示等。通过与染发专家共同工作实践一系列染发方案，以取得最完美的效果。ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hin
9、ts&Tips1Theory理论Colourinfluencesourlivesinmanydifferentways;aworldwithoutcolourcouldbedescribedasboring,empty,lackinginenergyandlife!Aclearunderstandingofthephysiologyofhairandnaturalhaircolourwillensureasuccessfulcolouringprocedurewhilstmaximisinghaircare.颜色以不同的方式影响着我们的生活；一个没有颜色的世界是乏味，空洞，没有活力和生命的。清
10、楚了解头发及天然发色的心理影响能确保成功的染发方案，同时又能最大程度的保护头发。ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsNaturalHair1.1天然发质ColourinHairComesfrompigmentgranulesType&quantitydeterminestone&depthPigmentsize&shapevariesCuticleconditioninfluencesperception头发中的颜色来源于色素颗粒种类和发质决定发色深浅度色素大小和形状不同头发表层情况影响perceptionColourExpert1The
11、ory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsNaturalHair1.2天然发质PigmentTypeMelanocytecellscreatepigmentgranulesFoundwithintherootbulbTriggeredbyachemicalcatalystTwotypesofpigmentareformedPheomelaninEumelaninBothcombinetocreatenaturalshadesNaturaltonesareachromatic色素种类黑素细胞产生色素颗粒发现于发根中由化学催化剂促成形成的两种色素外激素真黑素两者结合生成天然色调天
12、然发色为鲜艳色pigmentationzonekeratinisationzonemelanocytesColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsNaturalHair1.3天然发质Depth&ToneColourdepthisdeterminedbyquantityGreaterpigmentconcentration=darkershadeEumelaninhasmoreinfluenceondepthDepthisrepresentedbyascale(1to10)ColourtoneisdeterminedbytypeCombinati
13、onsofeumelanin&pheomelaninToneismoreevidentashairlightensPheomelaninhasmoreinfluenceontone颜色深浅度和发色颜色深浅度取决与发质越大量的色素汇集=越深的色调真黑素对颜色深浅度的影响更大颜色深浅度以一个比例的形式体现（1比10）发色取决于头发类型是外激素和真黑素的结合发色越浅色调越明显外激素对发色影响更大thickhairnormalhairfinehair=pigmentextralightblondelightblondemediumblondedarkblondlightbrownmediumbrown
14、darkbrownblackColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsNaturalHair1.4天然发质PrimaryUndertonesAshairislightened,tonesbecomeevidentPrimaryundertonewillinfluencefinalshadeCorrectivecolouringmayberequired基础发色发色越浅，色调越明显基础发色影响最终发色有可能需要颜色修正pheomelanineumelaninColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&Tip
15、sNaturalHair1.5天然发质BehaviourofPigmentsEumelaninIslargerthanpheomelaninIsbrokendownmoreeasilyIsfoundclosertotheedgeofthecortexCanbegrey/brownPheomelaninIsmuchsmallerthaneumelaninSizedeterminescolourIsmoredeeplyembeddedintothecortexCanbered/orange/yellow色素作用真黑素比外激素大容易分解在头皮表层更容易发现可能是灰色/棕色外激素比真黑素小多了大小决定
16、发色更容易被头皮深层次吸收可以是红色/橘红色/黄色ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&Tips2GeneralProducts普通产品Colouringhairisascienceaswellasanartform.Itisauniqueprocesswhencomparedtodyingfabricsorsimilarmaterials,astherootbulbofthehairshaftisalive!Agoodworkingknowledgeofthetypeofproductsavailableforcolouringhairwillp
17、rovidethefoundationnecessaryinordertobecomeanexpert.染发不仅是一门科学更是一门艺术。有别于织物染色，它是一门独特的工艺流程，因为毛囊中的发束是活的。对于染发产品种类的充分了解会为成为这一行业的专家提供必要的基础。ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.1PigmentsinColouringProductsDirectPigmentsDemi/SemiPre-developeddirectdyestuffPigmentsaredepositedint
18、hecuticleSomepigmentslodgeinthecortexPigmentsgraduallywashoutOxidativePigmentPermanentUndevelopedpara-dyesNeedH2O2andammoniaadditivesPigmentsdevelopwithinthecortex染发产品中的色素Direct色素半持久性/非持久性预先处理过的direct染料色素附着与头发表层一些色素渗入头皮色素会逐渐被洗去氧化色素持久性未处理过的para-dyes需要H2O2及氨水色素在头皮中生长ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts
19、3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.2ProductGroupsPlantbasedcolourSomecolourpenetratesintocortexSomecolourisdepositedinthecuticlelayerSemi-PermanentColourisdepositedinthecuticlelayer产品组植物提取液染发一些颜色渗入头皮一些颜色附着于头发表层非持久染发颜色附着于头发表层ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.3ProductGrou
20、ps产品组Demi-PermanentSomecolourpenetratesintocortexSomecolourisdepositedinthecuticlelayerPermanentColourpenetratesfullyintothecortex半持久染发一些颜色渗入头皮一些颜色附着于头发表层持久性染发颜色完全渗入头皮ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.4PlantbasedcolourHasdirectpigmentsMainlydepositspigmentinthecuticl
21、eGraduallyfadesIsammoniafreeIstone-on-toneCreatesahighglossfinish植物提取液染发有direct色素色素主要附着于头发表层颜色逐渐褪去没有氨水能在染过的头发上再上色能够营造十分光亮的质感ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.5Semi-PermanentColoursHavedirectpigmentsMainlydepositcolourinthecuticleDonotuseH2O2solutionGraduallyfadeAreAm
22、moniaFreeBlendupto20%whitehairHaveacosmeticbenefit非持久性染发有direct色素色素主要附着于头发表层不使用H2O2配方逐渐褪色不使用氨水能遮盖20%的白头发有美容功效ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.6Demi-PermanentColoursCombinedirect&oxidativepigmentsDepositcolourinthecuticle&cortexUseaweakH2O2solutionGraduallyfadeoutAre
23、AmmoniaFreeHaveagentlecolouringactionBlendupto50%whitehair半持久性染发将Direct和氧化色素结合色素不仅附着与头发表层还渗入头皮使用较弱的H2O2配方逐渐褪色不使用氨水染发反应较柔和能遮盖50%的白发ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.7PermanentColoursBleachesLightenhaircolourReducenaturalpigmentsDissolveartificialpigmentsRequireH2O2Oxi
24、dativeTintsDepositpermanentcolourwithinthecortexRed,blue&yellowpigmentsdevelopintofinalcolourCanlightenordarkenshadeRequireH2O2Coverupto100%whitehair持久染发漂染使发色变浅减少天然色素溶解人工色素需要H2O2氧化染发剂色素持久渗入头皮红色，兰色及黄色色素搀入最终发色能使色调变浅或变深需要H2O2100%遮盖白发ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralProducts普通产品2.8Co
25、louringIngredientsOxidativeColourThebasecreamOilorwaterbasedemulsionColourprecursorsUndevelopedcolourmoleculesDyestuffsPre-developedcolourmoleculesAlkalisingagentsOxidativecatalyst染发成分氧化染发基础乳液油性或水性乳剂Colourprecursors预先处理过的色素分子染料未成熟的色素分子碱化试剂氧化催化剂ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralPro
26、ducts普通产品2.9ColouringIngredientsCaringagentsPromotehealthyhairAntioxidantsPreventpre-oxidationofcolourprecursorsComplexingagentsCombinewithmetallicimpuritiesPerfumeDisguisesthesmellofammonia染发成份护理试剂促进生成健康头发抗氧化剂预防colourprecursors的过早氧化综合试剂与金属杂质混合香料掩盖氨水的气味ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&Tips3
27、Hints&Tips建议和提示Wheretheoryprovidesthefoundationofcolourexpertise,practicalexperienceiswhatcounts!Notallcolouringproceduresarestraightforward,nordotheyfollowtheinstructionsonthepacket!Provenhintsandtipsaswellascorrectivecolouringproceduressetapartthegoodsalonfromthebadaswellashomecolouringfromsalon-b
28、asedcolour.理论只提供染发技能的基础，实际经验才是最重要的。并非所有的染发步骤都是简单明了的，它们和包装上的说明并不相同。经证实的提示和建议以及正确的颜色矫正步骤不仅能区分一个发型屋的好坏，还能分别居家染发和发型屋染发。ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColour3.1颜色修正HairistoolightRestorecolourHairistoodarkRemovecolourWrongtoneNeutraliseorcleanoutcolour发色太浅修复发色发色太深去除颜色发色不对中和或去除颜色Co
29、lourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColour3.2颜色修正TheColourWheelComplementarycoloursYellow-VioletOrange-BlueRed-Green色轮互补色黄色紫罗兰橘红色兰色红色绿色ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColour3.3颜色修正RestoringColourIGORARoyalre-pigmentationtreatmentPostpigmentationIGORAGlossIGO
30、RAFleurIGORARoyalColorConcentrates修复发色依采王室re-pigmentation配方染后护理依采Gloss系列依采Fleur系列依采永久染发浓缩配方ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColour3.4颜色修正RemovingColourIGORAVarioBlondCleanseIGORAVarioBlondCorrect去除颜色依采无尘漂粉依采修正漂粉ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColour3.5颜
31、色修正RemovingColourIGORAUltraSoftBleachIGORALighteningCream去除颜色依采超柔漂染依采光亮乳霜ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColour3.6颜色修正NeutralisingColourIGORARoyalShadesIGORARoyalColourConcentrates中和颜色依采永久色依采永久染发浓缩配方ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsCorrectiveColour3.7颜色修正Neutrali
32、singColourIGORABlondTonerIGORAPersonality|Fleur|Gloss中和颜色依采金色爽肤水依采的Personality/Fleur/GlossColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.8普通染发ResistiveHairProblemTight,closedcuticlelayerHairisresistivetocolourRecognitionSolution抗拒性发质问题过于紧密，贴近头发表层头发不容易上色认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2General
33、Products3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.9普通染发PorousHairProblemOpencuticlelayerLoose,damagedinternalstructureHighinitialabsorptionwithlowretentionRecognitionSolution多孔性发质问题开放的头发表层松散，遭到破坏的内部结构首次染发高吸收不易褪色认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.10普通染发ColourIntensityProblemFadingcolo
34、urPoorcoverageRecognitionSolution发色集中问题褪色覆盖程度不够认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.11普通染发ColourDepthProblemColourresultistoodarkRecognitionSolution颜色深浅度问题染后颜色太深认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.12普通染发ColourToneProblemColourresultistoowa
35、rmRecognitionSolution色调问题颜色太偏暖色识别解决ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.13普通染发ColourReflexProblemColourresultisdullandflatRecognitionSolution颜色反射作用问题染后颜色太平淡认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.14普通染发Re-TouchingProblemRe-growthistoovibrantafterusi
36、ngafashionshadeRecognitionSolution补染问题使用一种流行色后新发生长太快认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsGeneralColour3.15普通染发CorrectiveColourProblemUnwantedtonesaftercolouringRecognitionSolution颜色修正问题染后出现不想要的色调认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsWhiteHair3.16白发Whitehair:Iscausedbythe
37、absenceofallpigmentIsoftencoarseandresistiveCanbedifficulttocolourMaycompletelyorpartlycoverthehead白发：由于缺少所有色素引起头发常常粗糙，有抵抗性很难染发可能局部或全部覆盖头部ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsWhiteHair3.17白发CoverageProblemInadequatecoverageRecognitionSolution覆盖问题没有足够覆盖认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProduc
38、ts3Hints&TipsWhiteHair3.18白发PorousWhiteHairProblemOpencuticlelayerLoose,damagedinternalstructureHighinitialabsorptionwithlowretentionRecognitionSolution多孔性白发开放的头发表层松散，遭到破坏的内部结构首次染发高吸收不易褪色认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsWhiteHair3.19白发ResistiveWhiteHairProblemTight,closedcuticlela
39、yerHairisresistivetocolourRecognitionSolution抗拒性白发问题过于紧密，贴近头发表层头发不容易上色认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsPre-Pigmentation3.20染前打底Pre-Pigmentation:IsusedtorestorenaturalpigmentshadesShadesarered,orangeandyellowIsrequiredwhencolour2levels+darkerCanbeachievedwitharangeofproducts染前打底用来修
40、复天然色调色调为红色，橘红色和黄色当颜色需要加深两度时使用能够使用一系列产品来达到该效果ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsPre-Pigmentation3.21染前打底PorousHairProblemHairlackscolourretentionduetohighporosityandpoorconditionRecognitionSolution多孔性发质问题头发因为糟糕的发质和高渗透性而不具抗拒性认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsPre-Pigmentati
41、on3.22染前打底LightenedHairProblemHairhasbeenlightenedandneedstobecolouredbacktoadarkershadeRecognitionSolution染浅的头发问题头发被染浅，需要被染回更深的颜色认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsPre-Pigmentation3.23预防色素沉着RedTargetShadeProblemAnintenseredshadeisrequired2levelslowerthanthetargetshadeRecognitionSol
42、ution红色目标色问题集中的红色需要比目标色淡两度认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsHighlifting&Bleaching染浅和漂染3.24Highlifting&bleaching:CanresultinunwantedtonesCaninvolve2or3separateproceduresRequirespowerfulchemicals染浅和漂染可能会带来不想要的色调可能会需要两到三次的分开步骤需要强劲的化学物质ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsHigh
43、lifting&Bleaching染浅和漂染3.25TonalVariationProblemThehighliftingorbleachingprocessresultsinanunwantedtoneRecognitionSolution色调变化问题染浅和漂染的过程带来不想要的色调认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsHighlifting&Bleaching染浅和漂染3.26MattHairProblemAfterlightening,thecolourresultistoomattRecognitionSolution无
44、光泽发质问题染浅后，发色无光泽认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsHighlifting&Bleaching染浅和漂染3.27ChemicalReactionProblemHairstartstogogreenafterswimmingRecognitionSolution化学反应问题游泳后发色转绿认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsPerm&Colour烫发和染发3.28PermedHairProblemColourresultistoodarkandmat
45、tRecognitionSolution烫发问题染后发色太暗或无光泽认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsPerm&Colour烫发和染发3.29ColouredHairProblemNewpermresultsinsignificantlossofcolourRecognitionSolution染过的头发问题新烫发后大量掉色认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsEqualisation平衡化3.30NormalHairProblemRe-growthrequi
46、resre-touching,existinghairneedstobeequalisedRecognitionSolution正常发质问题新生发需要补染，原来的头发需要平衡化认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsEqualisation平衡化3.31PorousHairProblemRe-growthrequiresre-touching,existinghairneedstobeequalisedRecognitionSolution多孔性发质问题新生发需要补染，原来的头发需要平衡化认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsEqualisation平衡化3.32DamagedHairProblemRe-growthrequiresre-touching,existinghairneedstobeequalisedRecognitionSolution受损发质问题新生发需要补染，受损头发的受损部位需要平衡化认识解决方案ColourExpert1Theory2GeneralProducts3Hints&TipsSummary总结SubtitleContentContent副标题内容内容