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1、137Reader D Chinas Minority CostumesCostume is the crystal of human wisdom as well as fruits out of their labor.Duringhuman beings long process of evolution and development,minority costumes inChina also have had their own changes and development,becoming the culturalsymbol for Chinas 56 nationaliti
2、es by decorating their living world.Costume is a visual language and window for civilization.Minority costumes inChina are rich in ornaments and beautiful in color.Some are long while others areshort:some are simple while others are complicated.But as a whole,there is adifference between north robes
3、 and south skirts.The northern nomadic people livingin the Mongolian Tableland,the Tibetan Tableland and Xinjiang Basin grassland orthe nationalities that have had the life of nomadism and hunting,have chosen theirproduction and living ways belonging to the herding and hunting civilizations as areas
4、on of their living space in the north of the Great Wall for a long time withfreezing cold tablelands,deserts,forests and grasslands such as the Mongols,Tibetan,Ewenki,Oroqen,Manchu,Kazakh,and etc.They wear robes and boots,whichbecome the symbol for horse-riding nationalities.The minorities in the so
5、uth living onrice economy are known for their skirts.Even the land forms vary in Chinas southcentral,south-west and south-east.As most of the regions have a warm,humid andrainy climate,the minorities living in these regions choose rice planting as their livingmethod,such as Tong.Miao,Lisu,Buyi,Pumi,
6、Deang,Dai,Zhuang and Gaoshan,with their costumes suitable for their daily life in the style,quality or color.Eachnationalitys costume is its self-identification.Skirts are popular in the southernminorities,where as the style,color and design vary greatly from each other.Daistube skirts,short skirts
7、in Hani and Jinuo,and skirts called“Bafuluoqun”in Va andTujia have all become kinds of decorations and signs distinguishing themselves fromothers.The women of Shui make an even more outstanding difference from others byputting on skirts outside their long pants.Costume is a silent language,the patte
8、rn and color expressed is a nationalitys historyand cultural tradition,as well the nationalitys profoundly collective memory ofhistory.Each ethic group has come through lengthy original gens society without arecord by words.Academe holds that totems are clannish material signs.Where canwe find the a
9、ncient past.The butterfly-mother pictures on Miaos costume recordancestors thoughts on how human beings originate;the frog design link-stitch of thestrap of the seven-star shawl used by Nakhi women records their ancestors longhistory of worshiping frogs;people in Yao Nationality wear“five-color clot
10、hes”which are trimmed with five colors,with the slightly turn-up headbands,indicate thattheir ancestors have created the Panhu mythology.Costume tells history and embodies nationality ethos.The leather clothes and bootsby Mongols manifest horseback nationalitys traditional vigor and their magnanimou
11、s138character;the colorful costumes together with the fabulous designs them worn byTibetan represent their flexible and energetic verse in snowy the tableland;Miaoscostume has recorded their constant migration history,reflecting their hanging-onethos;Dongs costume is also a systematic culture denota
12、tion,represented by itsrich-in-ornament festival finery,is a collection of their civilization,as well as theembodiment of their cultural spirit.Chinese ethnic minority costume is the collective aesthetics crystal.From everyaspect of the quality,weaving,color,patterns,features and decoration,each sho
13、ws itsvivid folk features,full-bodied regional characteristics and unique aesthetic spice.Qiapan worn by Uyghurs and Kazakh shows a comfortably stylish beauty,the tubeskirts worn by Va and Li have a slender beauty.Costumes by Huiand Salar whobelieve in Islam have the beauty of simplicity.Pullovers i
14、n southern ethnic groupshave the beauty of ancient simplicity and peaceful harmonyCostume of ethnic minorities is the gallery of beauty rich in ornaments.The beauty isperformed when the clothes are put on,and beyond this single body beauty,it is acolony beauty,a collective aesthetic crystal from eac
15、h ethnic minority.The costume isa heritage in devolution through bodies generation by generation,vividly revealing itshistorical meaning,its beauty value and different life styles.Mongolian CostumesIn the vastly crescent tableland region in the north,there are fertile grassland as wellas boundless d
16、esert.Mongols have been living there on herding for generations.Theunique natural landscape,the long history and the unique life style leave lively markson their costume.Nomadic life cannot last without horse-riding.Adaptive to the life of herding andhunting on horse backs in the icy cold weather,me
17、n and women all like to wear longrobes:leather robes in winter and jacket robes in spring and autumn.There are manykinds of robes.Concerning Mongols robes,there are open crotched long robes andnon-crotched long robes,long robes with hoof sleeves and that without hoof sleeves,wide-lap robes and narro
18、w-lap robes.Open-crotched robes are Mongols robes open at each side,popular in Chahar andErdos regions,with satin,oak silk brocade trimmed the lappets,collar basin,collaredge,cuffs and lap edge.Compared with open-crotched robes non-crotched robes arequite big and loose.Mongols in Ujimqin and Buriat(
19、a few live in Northeast China)wear non-kaichar robes.Robes worn by women are styled like skirts,with lots ofpleats and with a partition technique on the parts of elbows,shoulders and waistlines.This unique technique has been continued is said to remember one of their nationalqueen.139The feature of
20、hoof-sleeve robes is that the cuffs turned back,with the shape of hoofsand are quite loose.The hoof-sleeves for herdsmen are bigger than those of the robesfor women and children.Robes in Barag and Tuerhute all have hoof-sleeves.Mongolsare well known for“the horseback nationality”,horses are their tr
21、ansportation tools,companions in their life,especially on the bloody battlefronts.Mongolian proverbssay,“If you cannot ride a horse,you are not Mongol.”The important position ofhorses in their daily life affects their aesthetic view,and the hoof-sleeves on the robesare a reflection of their aestheti
22、c view on costume.For the robes without hoof-sleeves,the cuffs will not be folded up,but there is a difference of width and narrowness.Women in eastern Horqinand Kalaqin wear robes without hoof-sleeves.Mongol men and women both wear robes,with more features in the mens.concerning color,the young men
23、 like materials in indigo,gem-blue,tan and lightbrown;middle-aged and old men prefer colors in deep brown,deep blue,deep purpleand deep green.On ornaments,robes worn by men are simple and in good taste withtwo to three finger-wide edge.Mongol robes must all matched with sashes,which areextremely imp
24、ortant for Mongol herds,as they can both prevent against cold andfacilitate activities on horse backs.The sash has a length of 660 cm and is wider formen.A Mongol wearing the robe usually inserts into the sash his tobacco bag,Mongolian sword,fire pricker and“dalian”,the long placket,a way of bringin
25、gconvenience and incarnating his magnanimous bosom.Usually there are auspicioussilver or bronze buttons on the robes some with color strings.There are many kinds ofsilver or bronze buttons ornamented with auspicious patterns such as fire,cloud andthe Chinese character“萬”.The fire pattern is a reflec
26、tion of worshiping fire byMongol who started this custom back in the primitive society.They call fire as“Fire Mother”,meaning that fire is the origin of life in theircollective consciousness.Herding and raising livestock in the field,they areaccompanied by blue sky and white cloud;the cloud pattern
27、on their garments is acultural memory of their daily life.The pattern of“萬”is an auspicious symbol ofchasing harmony.As residing in the icy cold area,the northern nomads in the winter have to weartrousers.In his On Nomad Garments,Wang Guowei says,“We cannot find in theancient clothing the custom of
28、wearing short coats with trousers.Even for the lingerie,there were underwear in the past.but outside must be skirts;as covered by long uppercoating,the underwear could not be seen outside.Wearing trousers started with thepleat clothing which is actually a custom for the horseback nomad.This shows th
29、atHan nationality wear trousers which becomes mens regular dressing comes from thenomads.Because of the cold weather the nomads wear trousers.Their traditionalleather trousers are smoked leather trousers,“diaomian”leather trousers,smoked andhair-removed leather trousers,and so on.Festival costumes a
30、re the most characteristic ones for Mongolian nationality.Naadam140(or Nadam)is the Mongolian grand festival.During Naadam every year,three racescalled“three skills for men”,e.g.horse-racing,wrestling and archery will be held.Allthe competitors will put on special costumes,among them,the costume for
31、 wrestlersis most featured.These wrestlers wear a kind of sleeveless jacket made out of cowleather,deer skin and camel skin,on it with rimmed bundles also called bubbled nails,which are made out of bronze or silver,with the function of facilitating each othergrabbing the opposite tightly.They are al
32、l kinds of auspicious designs on the back ofthe jackets,some of them with Mongolian showing words,their self-identity.Thewrestlers wear large-crotched trousers,which are folded up by a piece of 10.5 m whitecloth with an average waistline of three to four meters.These kinds of trousers arecomfortably
33、 loose,easily tucked into the boots.At the same time exhibiting thewrestlers valiant posture,they have the function of concealing skills and protectingthe body.The designsOn these trousers are rich and beautiful in ornament;some of them are embroideredusing colorful tread with dragons phoenixes,tige
34、rs,elephants etc,some of them havethe design of fire.There is even the design of“two-dragon-playing with-the bead”found in modern times.All these designs area reflect on of the cultural mentality ofadvocating bravery and power,which are also reflecting this grassland.The nomadcostume has a preferenc
35、e bright color,such as colors in red,yellow,green,blue,andespecially white.Different from minorities in the southern west,they particularlydislike black color.This idea is related to Shamanism belief which worships theheaven and states that human beings color sense is brought about by worshiping the
36、heavens color.In the ancient times Mongols called Spring Festival as White Festival.They deeply believe that white color is a symbol of sanctity,auspiciousness,longevityand virtue.Whether for the ordinary life or for festival and marriage occasions,costumes for Mongolian women mainly have colors in
37、pink red,bright red,sky blueand white;costumes for men are purple,brown,blue and other bright colors.This isdifferent from costumes in other regions.Beautiful patterns are embroidered on thelappets and cuffs,with the patterns of flowers and herbs occupying a big ratio.Thisunique feature materializes
38、 their deep love for life.Vast sky,boundless grassland,white felt houses,wandering sheep,the grand and majestic living style forms theiraesthetic mind towards clothing.Wearing robes large in size and bright in color is aneed for their living style of residing by following the water and grass;the thi
39、ck andlarge robes help them resist the cold in the tableland,facilitate them gallopingbetween blue sky and green grass.Manchus CheongsamThe land between the beautiful White Mountains and the dark waters in Chinasnorthern east is where Manchu live.Manchu has a long history.The earliest recordwas in S
40、hang Dynasty.In the ancient times,hunting with archery demanded that menand women had to wear robes with hoof-sleeves,which were strikingly different fromHans garments with upper-coat and lower-skirts,convenient for horse riding and141field-hunting and helped them resist snow and wind from the north
41、 eastern plain.Menwear cheongsam which has round collar,narrow sleeves,twisted opening,front left,vents on four sides with buttons.The design of four-side vents is just for theconvenience of hunting on horsebacks.Crescent-shaped cuffs are connected with thenarrow sleeves,called hoof-sleeves,are usua
42、lly rolled up but let down when huntingin winter or at war times to keep hands warm.Manchu people like to put outside thecheongsam a front-opening short gown with or without sleeves which is called a“magua”(horse gown)or“majia”(horse jacket),with a round collar,a front opening,vents and buttons.Acco
43、rding to Manchu customs,the horse gown has a lengthreaching to the navel,with sleeves as long as to the elbows and vents at our sides.Thereason for its name is that it has the feature of short body and sleeves,suitable to put iton outside the long robe in winter without hindering hunting on horsebac
44、ks and atsame time helping keeping warm.As sleeveless jackets are convenient to wear andhave protecting and decorating functions,Manchu people all like wearing them.Thesleeveless jackets designs vary,such as front opening,big opening,pipa opening,horizontal opening and“batulu”sleeveless jacket,etc.M
45、anchu are called“archery people”,hunting endows them with a colorful life.Patterns of animals and plants become their costumes ornaments.They worshipnature.This religious affection is shown in their costumes patterns and ornaments,which are undergoing continuous change and development,becoming a cha
46、rmingflower in the Chinas ethnic minority costume.Cheongsam worn by Manchu women is unique and has affected broadly andprofoundly Chinas nationality costume.At the very beginning,cheongsam worn byManchu women was wide-wasted straight-up,without hoof-sleeves,cuffs are flat andquite large,collar openi
47、ng is low;a scarf is used if without collar.When Manchuentered inside the“Gate”in the 17th century,cheongsams mode changed greatly;most of them were designed as wide robes with large sleeves,without an opening oronly with two openings at the bottom,various flower patterns are studded on thecollar op
48、ening,lappet and the cuffs.The famous“eighteen inlays”appeared at the endQing Dynasty,meaning that it can only called beauty when eighteen inlays have beenapplied.The pattern of dancing butterflies is infrequently used in cheongsam,delivering their love for life and nature.Times are changing,so does
49、 the style ofcheongsam;the original wide-waited straight up mode has been gradually changedinto the present days cheongsam with clear and natural line,suiting the body,withhigh collar and pinching waist.Cheongsam is a kind of garment connecting both a coat and a skirt,and is the costumedisplaying females body beauty;with its simple but smooth lines,full of flexibilityand vigor,it flourishes up to the contemporary times,and is adored by manynationalities in China.