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1、附录(外文文献)原文 Trend predictionTrend prediction information is much broader than fashion prediction in that it may not be specifically related to fashion. Trends are recorded and trend predictors (looking for patterns of human behaviour, indicating changing markets or new consumer needs) constantly moni
2、tor the media and society.Many industries use trend prediction to forecast relevant changes and plan product development, for example the interest in all things spiritual was forecast by Faith Popcorn, initially in the Popcorn Report and was developed and continued in Clicking.Spirituality is seen i
3、n the interest of such things as Feng Shui which is a popular approach to interior design. Bookstores now have shelves dedicated to spirituality, as individuals look inwards to discover themselves in a fast-moving world.The fashion prediction consultancy relies on experts in a variety of fields for
4、its structure. They have personnel all over the world to help in gathering intelligence.The full-time staffing of a consultancy generally consists of the editor who creates the company philosophy. The publisher, on the technical side, puts the information together. The retailing and merchandising pr
5、ofessionals and fashion directors work on consultancy for individual clients, by applying the general fashion trends more specifically to their needs. They must be skilled in, and aware of, a variety of markets. This could, for example, involve developing exclusive collection strategies, concepts an
6、d designs for spinners, weavers, textile printers, mens, womens and childrens garments, shoe and accessory manufacturers and for retailers private labels. They may also be expected to sell subscriptions to the publications to new clients.The objective is to work closely with the client to determine
7、their concerns, goals and potential customers with a view to tailor-making a design solution.The success of prediction companies relies on pinpointing trends and developing these for individual markets at the right time! Trends may be affected by social, cultural, political and economic moods, as we
8、ll as evolutions in lifestyle, technological developments, media and retailing. This information is tapped and recorded by international correspondents who provide up-to-date intelligence from fashion capitals, such as London, Paris, Milan, New York, Florence and Tokyo.The design team determines how
9、 this intelligence affects fashion and consumer awareness.Designers/Illustrators are employed with design skills in menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, and illustration skills in interpreting and developing silhouette themes, knit and woven samples, print stories and accessories. They visualise
10、new ideas developed from the trend information and consider carefully figure proportions and stylization so that any personnel, using the service, can understand what is suggested by the visual.International agents promote and sell the service to clients worldwide, for example in Los Angeles, Tokyo,
11、 London and Paris.ColourColour is the first consideration of season and is produced for autumn/winter and spring/summer ranges.The colour is put into dye 18 months ahead of the specified season (some clients may require this information up to 2 years earlier, but this may not be shown in the final p
12、resentation box).Fibre and fabric manufacturers require advanced information regarding colour as they have to develop their product early enough for designers and garment manufacturers to buy it and in turn develop their product. Presentation packs are usually presented with a fixed range of colour
13、and a removable range so that clients can develop their own colour combinations. Colour packages are included in the subscription price and may be sold separately to clients who only require colour information and not the rest of the service.The follows the setting of the mood for a new season by de
14、veloping fabric and silhouette themes. Prediction consultancies produce a variety of materials and publications for their clients.Directional themes and full-figure silhouette illustrations of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear together with accessories are shown. Included in the publication may
15、 be exclusive handlooms for wovens, knits and prints produced by freelance and in-house designers.Commercial fabrics may be published at this time, derived from fabric fairs such as, Premiere Vision, Interstoff and Prato. These are created from hand cut and stuck swatches of directional fabrics rela
16、ting to the seasons previously predicted themes.The fashion prediction design processOne publication is worked in at a time (there may be 12-one a month, or more, depending upon the size of the consultancy and its breadth of expertise).A company that develops its own thematic material will hold a su
17、ccession of meetings with the core team resulting in decisions being made regarding the amount and content of the themes for a particular season, including evocative names. This is achieved by discussion. Each individual states what they fell will be a strong trend in the coming season. Where one id
18、ea is repeated by several members it is incorporated into the plan for the book. Where similar ideas are mentioned they are amalgamated to form a strong and identifiable trend.A colour palette is decided upon. The colours are divided into groups corresponding with the themes. Some colours unavoidabl
19、y overlap, but as main and accent colours alter the overall impression, each theme is sufficiently different.The designers then start designing. The walls are covered with tear sheets from magazines, separated into appropriate themes as inspiration. Photographs from the trade fairs are used for guid
20、ance on design details.Fabrics are then discussed in conjunction with the designers designing the garments. It is important to consider the balance of outerwear and separates fabrics. When decided, lengths of fabric and any interesting accessories are ordered to provide swatches for the books.After
21、the designs are completed they are illustrated with reference to particular markets and lifestyles and to capture the essence of the themes. Technical drawings are also produced, either by the design team or by freelance illustrators.Samples of knitwear and new textiles may be commissioned which wil
22、l be photographed for the books.Mood boards, containing visuals, fabric and trim, depicting the themes, are completed. The mood boards are sent away to be photographed and return as transparencies.During the process of compilation, agents worldwide will have seen securing old and new clients, to who
23、m the books will be sent on completion. a master copy of the book is compiled and sent to the printers to have a sample copy printed and bound. The copy is checked for any mistakes before the book goes into production.Travel is an important aspect of fashion research and visiting trade fairs allows
24、reports to be compiled which observe not only trends apparent from the exhibitors displays, but also from the people (who are mainly from the fashion industry) as they walk around the shows. This exercise helps to understand the differences in international fashion, which is important when catering
25、for foreign clients. Theme developmentFashion prediction for a new season is usually promoted as a series of themes. These are designed to inspire and direct the designer for a number of markets. Themes, often, are given names to evoke feelings and moods and reflect the content of the theme. Each th
26、eme may appeal to one or more markets and requires interpretation from the designer to develop for their particular market. Often the prediction company offers some consultation to the designer which is helpful in this development. Markets are usually defined by cost of the merchandise. Nowadays the
27、 markets referred to have vague names such as boutique, fashion aware, better end, pm dressing. This is more reflective of changes in lifestyle.These can be interpreted into customers buying from:Lower market budget; lower middle high street, chain stores; middle independent labels and department st
28、ores; upper middle designer diffusion; upper designer.Fashion prediction themes have often been very literal in their nature: nautical would show striped sweaters and sailor hats; utility always involve dungarees of some description and multiple pockets. A chic, tailored look may well involve a Fren
29、ch beret.It is important that visual codes are identifiable and mean similar things to different people. The illustration must work hard to convey a mood, an attitude, in the pose, that convinces the viewer about the sort of person that is being targeted.Similarly, a total look is always helpful bec
30、ause accessories can contribute to not only the communication of the theme, but may also convey the type of person who would wear the look.It is important that the proportion is believable and that the information is clear. Themes nowadays are less literal and are more about mixing ideas together to
31、 create something fresher. Lifestyle has become important, consequently themes may not be put into an evocative setting which helps to create the correct mood. Less clothing detail is on view but the message allows the designer to make their own interpretations.New uses of technology have resulted i
32、n the development of the Worth Global Style Network (WGSN) who produce a comprehensive on-line service to fashion industry. Members pay an annual subscription to view the full site; students may visit an educational version free of charge (for a limited period). The services available are: news upda
33、tes daily; womens, mens, youth and childrens trends; city reports from London, Paris, Milan, New York and Tokyo plus seasonal reports from new and trendsetting areas; international trade fair calendar; lifestyle reports - consumer attitudes, evolving buying patterns, seasonal phasing; catwalk shows
34、and trade event reports; graphics libraries; resource listings; licensing reports brands, films, sports events; mailbox problems and solutions; technical and production news garment and fabric technology, dyeing and finishing, print techniques, footwear and leathergoods technology.译文:流行趋势预测流行趋势预测信息所
35、包含的内容要比时装预测丰富得多,原因是其不一定与时装有关。流行趋势是会被记录下来的。趋势预测者(寻找人类行为特点,指出变化中的市场或新兴的消费需求)会对媒体及社会不断地进行监测。许多行业都使用趋势预测来预测相关变化并制定产品开发计划。例如,费丝波普康(Faith Popcorn)预测了人们对所有精神事物的兴趣。最初是在爆米花报告(Popcorn report )中进行的预测,后来又进行了扩展并继续在新爆米花报告(Clicking)中进行预测。人们认为精神性是符合诸如风水此类东西的利益的。风水是室内设计普遍采用的方法。当今的书店都设立了论述精神性书籍的书架,主要是由于现代世界变化迅猛,人们都希望
36、进行内省从而来发现自我。从事流行款式预测的咨询公司只有依靠各领域的专家才能形成自己的体系。它们在世界各地均雇用人员来收集情报。咨询公司的专职人员一般包括编辑(制定公司的宗旨),出版人(从技术的角度将信息汇总),零售与推销专业人员及时装经理(为个人客户提供咨询,将时装的总体趋势更具体地用来满足他们的需要)。这些人员必须具备必要的技能并了解各种市场。例如,这些技能可能包括开发独特的收集战略;纺纱机,织布机,纺织印花机,男人,妇女及儿童服装的概念与设计;鞋子与附件的生产商,以及零售商的自有品牌。还有可能需要他们向新客户销售订阅杂志。其目标是与客户一起紧密合作,确定他们都关心些什么,他们的目标是什么及
37、确定潜在客户,以便制定个性化设计方案。预测公司的成功取决于准确确定趋势并及时为个性化市场开发这些趋势。趋势受社会,文化,政治及经济气氛以及生活方式的变化,技术发展,媒体与零售的影响。本信息是由国际记者开发并记录的。他们从时装之都,如伦敦,巴黎,米兰,纽约,佛罗伦萨及东京,提供最新的情报。设计小组确定该情报会如何影响时装及消费者们的意识。雇用了具有男女与儿童服饰设计技能及说明并开发廓形主题,针织与机织样品,印花织物的详情与附件说明技能的设计人员/说明人员。他们将从趋势信息开发而来的新思维形象化并仔细考虑体形的比例及风格,以便使用服务的任何人员都能清楚视觉资料的含义。国际代理向世界各地,如洛杉矶,
38、东京,伦敦及巴黎,的客户推销并销售服务。预测流行色颜色是季节首要考虑的问题,是根据秋/冬及春/夏的类别而确定的。在所说季节到来之前的18个月用染料染出颜色(有些客户最多可能要求提前两年提供该信息,但最终的外观盒可能没有给出该信息。)。纤维及织物生产商要求提供颜色的超前信息,因为他们要提早开发出产品供设计人员及服装生产商进行购买并转而开发他们的产品。外观盒的颜色通常是固定并可除去的,这样客户可开发自己的颜色。订购价格中包括了彩色包装。只需要颜色信息而不需要其他服务的客户也可单独购买彩色包装。他们通过开发织物及廓型主题来确定新季节的色调。预测咨询公司为客户提供各种材料及杂志。它们给出指导性主题及包
39、括附件在内的男女,儿童服饰的完整廓型图。杂志可能包括由从事自由职业的设计师及内部设计师设计的独特的手织机织物,针织物及印花织物。此时可能会发表来自织物博览会,如Premiere Vision, Interstoff与Prato,的商业织物,系与提前预测季节主题有关的指导性织物的手工裁剪及粘贴样布。流行预测设计过程每次安排一期杂志(每月可能会安排12期或更多。这取决于咨询公司的规模及专业能力)。开发自有主题材料的公司会与核心团队召开一系列的会议来决定某一季节主题的数量及内容,包括令人怀旧的名称。他们是通过讨论的方式做出决定的。每位与会者均应各抒己见,说出他们认为的下一季节的主流趋势。如若数位与会
40、者均由同一想法,则该想法会被包括在杂志的计划中。如想法相似,则将这些想法融合在一起,得出主流及大家认同的趋势。然后确定调色板。根据主题将颜色分成不同的小组。有些颜色会重复,这是不可避免的。但由于主要及重点颜色会改变总体印象,每个主题均是足够不同的。 然后设计者们开始进行设计。他们将从杂志上撕下的图片贴在墙上并将图片按相关主题分类以获得灵感。他们还用从行业博览会获得的照片来指导设计细节。然后与设计服装的设计者讨论织物问题。重要的是要考虑外衣与单件衣着织物之间的平衡。决定后就订购织物及任何感兴趣的附件为杂志提供样布。设计完成后将根据某个市场及生活方式的要求进行说明,来抓住主题的精髓。设计小组或从事
41、自由职业的说明人员还会完成技术图纸。可能会委托制作针织物及新纺织品的样品,并为其拍照供杂志出版。然后做出用来说明主题,含有视觉资料,织物及饰物的色调板。将色调板送走拍照,并以幻灯片的形式送还。在杂志的编辑过程中,位于世界各地的代理们会看到牢靠的新老客户们,以便于在杂志编辑完成后将杂志寄送给他们。编辑一本原始资料版,将其送到印刷公司印刷并装订一本样品杂志。杂志在批量生产前前要对其内容进行校对,找出错误之处。旅行是时装研究的重点之一。参加行业博览会即可从参展者的展品又可从参观者(主要来自时装行业)那里观察出显而易见的趋势,从而编写出报道。这样我们可清楚国际时装的不同之处。这在招揽国外客户时是十分重
42、要的。主题开发新季节的时装预测通常是以一系列的主题进行推销的。设计这些主题的主要目的是就几个市场给设计者提供灵感及指导。主题名称设置通常是能够激发感情及心境的,并能反映主题内容。每个主题会对一个或多个市场有吸引力,并要求设计者就开发某个特定市场进行说明。预测公司通常向设计者提供某些咨询帮助他们进行开发。市场通常受商品成本的限制。当今所说市场的名称通常都很模糊,如boutique,fashion aware,better end及pm dressing。这更多地表明了生活方式的变化。这些可被解释成客户从以下市场购买:低端市场 经济型;中低端市场 商业街及连锁店;中端市场 独立品牌及百货商场;中高
43、端市场 设计者传播;高端市场 设计者。有关时装预测的主题通常是很刻板的。有关航海的主题通常会展示条纹毛衣及水手帽。有关公用事业的主题通常会涉及某种粗蓝布工作服及多个口袋。有关时髦,裁制衣服的主题通常会涉及法国贝雷帽。重要的是视觉资料的代码应是可识别的,对不同的人含义相近。说明人员必须努力工作来传达姿势所表示的心情及态度,让观看者确信被观者到底属于哪类人。类似地,全套装束也总是有帮助的。因为附件不仅有助于传达主题,而且还可帮助说明该全套装束者属于哪类人。重要的是比例要令人信服,信息要明了。当今的主题已变得不那么刻板了,更看重的是把各种想法融合在一起来创造出更新颖的东西。生活方式变得更重要了,所以
44、主题就不一定还是耳熟能详,可帮助获得正确心情的了。展出的服装细节更少了,但寓意着设计者可自己进行说明。技术的新用途导致了沃思全球时装网(WGSN) 的开发,从而给时装业提供了综合在线服务。成员在支付订阅年费后可浏览整个网站。学生可访问其教育版本一段时间,其费用是免费的。提供的服务有:每日最新新闻;妇女,男人及青年儿童的流行款式;来自伦敦,巴黎,米兰,纽约及东京的城市报道,外加来自新兴及新潮地区的季节报道;国际贸易博览会日历及生活方式报道 - 消费者的态度,演变中的购买特点,季节划分;模特表演及行业大事报道;图形库;资源列表;许可报道 品牌,电影,运动项目,邮箱问题及解决方案;技术及生产新闻 服装与织物技术,染整及印染技术,鞋类及皮革类产品技术。谢 辞衷心感谢天津工业大学四年来对我的培养,感谢艺术与服装学院服装设计与工程专业的全体教师。衷心感谢李彤老师,感谢您在毕业设计中对我的指导,您严谨求实、认真负责的态度让我敬仰,使我学会了脚踏实地,积极钻研的精神态度。衷心感谢父母的养育之恩,感谢关心鼓励我的同学和朋友。