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1、Insights into Chinese CultureFunction and CharacteristicSilk and Silk Road Embroidery and Batik Typical Chinese Costumes History and EvolutionContentsContentsDress & AdornmentInsights into Chinese CultureHistory and Evolution History and Evolution For thousands of years, generations of clothing desi
2、gners and garment makers in China have devoted themselves to building the “Garment Kingdom”, making the garments that cover the human body an important component of Chinese culture.Insights into Chinese CultureIn primitive society, the Chinese lived in caves. To keep warm, they covered themselves wi
3、th natural materials like leaves, grasses and animal furs. History and Evolution History and Evolution Insights into Chinese CultureThe invention of sewing allowed the early Chinese to make better fitting clothes to protect them from harsh conditions, thus assisting them in their adaptability and co
4、nsequently resulting in the expansion of their territories and an increase in their productivity.History and Evolution History and Evolution Insights into Chinese CultureDevelopment of ClothingDevelopment of ClothingAs early as the Zhou Dynasty, garments were already classified into sacrificial atti
5、re, court attire, army uniform, mourning attire and wedding attire. Insights into Chinese CultureThe tradition was broken during the Spring and Autumn and the Warring States period when the idea of fashion reached new heights. Insights into Chinese CultureThe Qin and Han dynasties witnessed the unif
6、ication of China and its written language. Insights into Chinese CultureChinese clothing developed rapidly during the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern dynasties. Insights into Chinese CultureDuring the Sui Dynasty, all poor people had to wear black and blue clothes, and only the rich people could
7、 wear other colors. Insights into Chinese CultureIn the Tang Dynasty, clothing was more varied than before because the state was more open to the outside world. Insights into Chinese CultureCasual wear appeared during the Song Dynasty, and clothes were simple and elegant. But during this dynasty, it
8、 became fashionable for women to bind their feet in order to keep them small. Insights into Chinese CultureDuring the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongolian ethnic group, known as the people on horseback, was in power. The simple and unadorned (朴素的) style of clothing was mainly a combination of Mongolian and H
9、an influences. Insights into Chinese CultureDramatic changes took place during the Ming Dynasty. There was no limitation to one style and natural beauty was advocated, thus bringing vigor and vitality to clothing culture.Insights into Chinese CultureDuring the Qing Dynasty, clothes became elegant an
10、d poised (威严的). Insights into Chinese CultureChinese garments of the 20th century ranged greatly in style and included the qipao, Chinese tunic suit, student uniform, Lenin-style suit, Russian dress, miniskirt, bikini, punk (怪异服装) and T-shirt.Insights into Chinese CultureFunction and CharacteristicF
11、unction and Characteristic practical function: covering the body;-适身体,和肌肤aesthetic function: creating a pleasing image;-衣服容貌者, 所以悦目也social function: identifying the social status.-贵贱之别, 望而知之Insights into Chinese CultureSilk and the Silk RoadSilk and the Silk RoadBeing a Chinese invention, silk was p
12、roduced and used only in China for a long period of time. During the Tang Dynasty, 30 percent of the trade was silk. It has a look and feeling of richness that no other fabric can match. Insights into Chinese CultureA romantic legend about the discovery of silk. (key words) Emperor Huangs reign in t
13、he 30th Century BC ; a father ;his daughter; a magic horse; a promise: if the horse could find her father, she would marry it; killed the innocent horse; a miracle; silkworm (蚕); she wept long and thin silken threads; missing her father Insights into Chinese CultureThe business of raising silkworms
14、and unwinding cocoons is known as silk culture or sericulture (养蚕业). A mans necktie needs raw silk from 111 cocoons, and a womans blouse from 630 cocoons. Insights into Chinese CultureSuzhou is the generally recognized home of Chinese silk or the silk capital of China. The large range of Suzhou silk
15、, long known for its quality and beauty, finds a brisk market in more than 100 countries and regions around the world.Insights into Chinese CultureThe Silk RoadThe Silk Road was the main trade route running through Asia in ancient times. It started from the Weishui Valley (渭水流域) in the east and ende
16、d on the east coast of the Mediterranean (地中海), from where it led to various places around Europe. From the Western Han Dynasty on, Chinas silk was exported via this route to the West, and thus a closer link between China and the West was formed, and cultural exchanges and friendly visits were promo
17、ted.Insights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese CultureThrough the silk trade, Chinese garment design and style had its greatest impact on the rest of the world. Conversely, garments, crafts and styles of other countries had their own profound influence on Chinese garments as well. Although t
18、he ancient Silk Road has lost its original function, the numerous relics along the way still attract many tourists.Insights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese CultureVideo Video View the video clip introducing silk, and try to put the script into English.人们向往杭州,既钟
19、情于风光旖旎的西子湖,也爱慕那色彩缤纷、优美华贵的丝织品。从新石器时代到公元前五世纪,中国是世界上唯一一个生产丝织品的国家。1. 那时的中国官员在出国访问的时候,常常把丝绸做为贵重礼物馈赠给各国友人,以表示尊敬。Insights into Chinese CultureEmbroidery (Embroidery (刺绣刺绣) ) Embroidery is a traditional Chinese handicraft featuring flowers, birds and scenery on silk or other cloth in colored silk threads. C
20、hinese embroidery dates back over 3,000 years. It has distinct regional and ethnic characteristics. Insights into Chinese CultureEmbroidery in China is generally classified into:Shu Embroidery (蜀绣) from Sichuan, Su Embroidery (苏绣) from Suzhou, Xiang Embroidery (湘绣) from Hunan Yue Embroidery (粤绣) fro
21、m Guangdong. Insights into Chinese CultureShu embroidery is famous for its simplicity.Insights into Chinese CultureSu for its extremely delicate stitches.Insights into Chinese CultureXiang for its rich colors.Insights into Chinese CultureYue for its complicated patterns.Insights into Chinese Culture
22、BatikBatik Batik or wax printing is a traditional Chinese folk art, which combines painting and dying. It presents a variety of ethnic styles and is most popular among the Buyi, the Miao and the Yao ethnic groups.Insights into Chinese CultureBatik involves painstaking work but follows a rather simpl
23、e process. First, beeswax (黄蜡) is melted in a bowl. Then a special brass knife is used to spread some of the liquid wax onto a cotton cloth forming patterns as it hardens. The cloth is immersed (浸入) completely into a jar of indigo (靛蓝染料) with the unwaxed cloth taking on color. The dyed cloth is boil
24、ed to melt off the wax, leaving clear white patterns on a blue background.Insights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese CultureBatik cloth can be made into garments, scarves, kerchiefs, bags, table-cloths, bedspreads, curtains, and other decorative items.Insights into Chinese Culture Typical Ch
25、inese Costumes Typical Chinese Costumes Chinese Tunic Suit Chinese Cheongsam (qipao)The Tang Costume Insights into Chinese CultureChinese Tunic SuitChinese Tunic SuitThe Chinese Tunic Suit or zhongshanzhuang was a uniform that Dr. Sun Yat-sen liked to wear and also recommended to the people of the c
26、ountry to wear. A tunic usually has four pockets and a turndown collar, secured with five central buttons. Insights into Chinese Culture Chinese Cheongsam (Chinese Cheongsam (qipaoqipao) ) The cheongsam is a classic dress for Chinese women with the elaborate elegance of Chinese traditional style. It
27、 enjoys a growing popularity in the international world of high fashion. Insights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese CultureThe cheongsam is easy and comfortable to wear, snugly fitting the female Chinese figure. Its neckline is high, collar closed, and its sleeves may be short, medium or ful
28、l length, depending on the season or the wearers taste. The dress is buttoned on the right side, with a loose bodice, a fitted waist, and side-slits to the hem, all of which combine to set off the beauty of the females figure. Insights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese Culture The Tang Costu
29、meThe Tang Costume Like the Cheongsam, the Tang costume is another representative of Chinese national costumes. It derived its name not just because its designers got inspirations from the costumes of the Tang Dynasty but also because the Tang Dynasty was a prosperous period in Chinese history. Insi
30、ghts into Chinese CultureEthnic AttireEthnic Attire The ethnic groups of China have produced fanciful, colorful costumes with distinctive styles and stunning ornamental accessories. Because of the use of costly materials, delicate craftsmanship, and various styles and exquisite patterns, Chinese eth
31、nic attire is a rich costume treasury.Insights into Chinese CultureTibetan robe (zangpao) It is loose fitting with long sleeves and a wider-than-usual waist. The front opens from the right side. Insights into Chinese CultureWhen a Tibetan man dresses, he tends to wear only one sleeve of the robe and
32、 pulls the other sleeve around his back to the front. It is a habit that has much to do with the weather. Insights into Chinese CultureWomens clothes are quite similar, but their dresses are even more colorful. The loose garment from the collar down is open on a slant to show the silk blouse inside.
33、 Each woman combines her dress with a beautiful shawl draped over her shoulders and a colorful apron around her waist.Insights into Chinese CultureMiao-style silver jewelry When a girl is born into a Miao family, her parents save on food and expenses so as to purchase a complete set of silver jewelr
34、y for her. Insights into Chinese CultureThe set, 15 kg in total weight, includes a crown, horns, earrings, neckband, chest plaque (胸章), clothing ornament, waistband, and bracelets. It takes more than one hour for a young woman to dress in all this silver and finish her makeup. Insights into Chinese
35、CultureOther Ethnic CostumesOther Ethnic CostumesThe Bai people are drawn to white in their garments. Men wear white shirts while womens clothing differs from place to place. Insights into Chinese CultureThe Uygur men often wear an unbuttoned robe over their shirt with square webbing tied around the
36、ir waist. The Uygur women like fresh and brightly colored clothes. Insights into Chinese CultureZhuang women wear collarless, embroidered and trimmed jackets buttoned to the left together with baggy trousers, embroidered belts and shoes, and pleated skirts. They often bind their heads with black clo
37、th. The men wear long collarless clothes or short shirts, long trousers with girdles. Insights into Chinese CultureMore ethnic attires for you to appreciateInsights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese CultureLiyuan StyleRevitalized Traditional Liyuan StyleRevitalized Traditional Chinese Dresse
38、sChinese DressesInsights into Chinese CultureInsights into Chinese CultureEssay QuestionEssay QuestionDo you think its necessary to restore traditional Chinese dresses? Why or why not?Insights into Chinese CultureDiscussion topic for next class: Which do you prefer, a modern villa or a Beijing quadrangle? Why?Insights into Chinese CultureThank You!