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1、中西服饰文化差异_英语论文中西服饰文化差异英语论文CatalogueChapter1Chineseandwesterndress(1)1.1ThedifferentfeaturesofChineseandwesterndress(1)1.2Whypeoplewearclothing(2)1.2.1Thefunctionalreason(3)1.2.2Thesocialreason(3)Chapter2CulturaldifferencesbetweenChineseandwesternclothing(3)2.1Design(3)2.2Color(4)2.3Patternandornament
2、s(5)2.4Material(5)Chapter3AnanalysisofChineseandwesterndressculture(9)3.1Geographicalenvironment(9)3.2Thehistoricalreason(9)3.3Thepoliticalreason(10)Chapter4Chineseandwesterndressaestheticcultureanddressconcept.124.1Dressaestheticculture(12)4.2Dressconcept(13)Abstract:Dresscultureisaculturalphenomen
3、onuniquetohumanbeings.Asithasdifferentaestheticideas,differentdressingconceptsanddifferentdressetiquetteinChinaandwest,itformsChineseandwesterndresscultureofthedifferentconnotationandcharacteristics.Thisthesisisdividedintofourmajorsections.ThefirstpartdescribesthedifferentfeaturesofChineseandwestern
4、dressandwhypeoplewearclothing.ThesecondpartdescribesculturaldifferencesbetweenChineseandwesternclothing.ThethirdpartgivesananalysisofChineseandwesterndressculture.ThelastpartdescribesChineseandwesterndressaestheticcultureanddressconcept.Basedontheanalysis,thethesisfinallydrawsaconclusion.Chineseandw
5、esterndresscultureeachhasrichconnotationanddistinctcharacteristics,whicharepreciousculturallegacywhichisleftbyhumanancestorsandaretheworldcultureheritage.Atthesametime,wetreasureourowncivilizationoffivethousandyearsinsteadofbelittlingourselves.Itissignificanttopromoteanddevelopouruniquecostumecultur
6、e.WeareconfidentandmakecontributionstorealizingtherejuvenationofourChinesenationandenrichingtheclothingcultureofthewholeworld.Keywords:Chineseandwesternclothing;culture;differences;aestheticcultureandclothingconcepts摘要:服饰文化是人类特有的文化现象。由于中西方各民族的审美观念、着装理念和服饰礼仪的不同,进而构成了不同内涵、不同特色的中西方服饰文化。本文共分为四部分。第一部分主要介
7、绍了中西服饰的不同特征以及为什么人要穿衣服,第二部分写中西方服饰的差异,第三部分写导致中西方服饰文化差异的原因,第四部分则写中西方服饰审美文化和着装理念。通过以上简单的阐述,最后得出结论,中西方服饰文化各具有丰富的内涵和鲜明的特色,她们都是人类祖先留下来的珍贵文化遗产,是世界文化的瑰宝。与此同时,我们应该珍惜本人五千年的文明而不是贬低本人的文明。促进和发展我们独特的民族服饰文化具有重要的意义。为了实现我们中华民族的文化复兴和丰富整个世界的文化,让我们自信起来吧!关键词:中西服饰;文化;差异性;审美文化与着装理念IntroductionCostumeculture,carriedbycostum
8、e,isarespectofourphysicalandspirituallifeandamixtureofourpsychologicalactivitieslikeconsciousness,emotion,ideaandideal.TherapiddevelopmentofadvancedtechnologymakesmulticulturalismstandoutandalsomakesconflictsbetweenChinaandtheWestincrease.Inthatcase,itbecomesmoreandmoreimportanttorecognizethesimilar
9、itiesanddifferencesofcostumeculturebetweenChinaandtheWest.Nowadays,thewholeworldis,tosomeextent,dominatedbythewesterncostumeculture,whichhaswounditswayintothedailylifeofthewholeworld,togetherwithtechnology,lifestyleandvaluesfromtheWest.QuitepopularinChina,itsnominallycalled“internationalizationor“gl
10、obalization.Inrecentyears,thecostumeindustryofChinahasdevelopedswiftly.The“internationalcostume,featuredbythewesterncostumeculture,hasbecomeaprettyimportantpartofourdailylife.However,asoureconomytakesoff,internationalstatusrisesandlivingstandardimproves,awaveofnationalcostumecultureresurgenceisrisin
11、g.Moreover,peoplefromtheWestpaymoreandmoreattentiontothegiantdragonintheEastChina.WesterncostumedesignersconstantlyintroduceChinesecostumeculturalelementstotheirlatestdesigns.Thosephenomenaarouseaseriesofthoughts:whatdistinguishesChinesecostumeculturefromthewesternone?Arethereanysimilaritiesbetweent
12、hem?WhatkindofcostumeculturewillweChineseholdasthemainstreaminthefuture,theso-called“internationalwesternone,theChineseoneorthefusionofthetwo?Toobtaintheanswerstothesequestions,wearesupposedtostudyandcontrastcarefullythecharacteristicsanddevelopingprocessesofthem,andthendrawsomeregularity.Tocontrast
13、thecostumeculturebetweenChinaandtheWest,itisnecessaryforustomasteragoodknowledgeoftheChineseandwesterncostumeculturalcharacteristics.Chapter1Chineseandwesterndress1.1ThedifferentfeaturesofChineseandwesterndressChinaisknownas“Xiaasitsalandofpropriety,anditsalsoknownas“Huawiththebeautyofitscostume.((左
14、传)p83)OurnationalcostumeisHanfu.ItoriginatedintheYanhuangera,formedintheSpringandAutumnPeriodandofficiallytookforminHanDynasty.Thatsthereasonwhyitscalled“Hanfu.Sincethen,inspiteofhistoricalevolutionsofallages,theirbasiccharacteristicshaveneverchanged.Hanfu,onthewhole,canbedividedintofourdevelopingst
15、ages:ZhouHanHanfu,WeiJinHanfu,SuiTangHanfuandSongMingHanfu.ZhouHanHanfuwasfeaturedbydignityandsimplicity,whileWeiJinHanfubychicandelegance,SuiTangHanfubydignified,graceful,elegantandpoisedstyle.HanfuinSongandMingDynastiesepitomizesthecharacteristicsofthepast-simple,dignified,elegant,etc.InQingDynast
16、y,HanfuwasforbiddenbythegovernmentanddisappearedfromthelandofChina.ThemainfeaturesofChineseclothingarefocusingontherightcollarsoverlap,thebanddeductedhidden,bigsleeves,nobuttonsandusingstringbinding,givingtheimpressionoffreeandeasyflowing.Thesecharacteristicsareobviouslydifferentfromthoseofotherethn
17、iccostumes.Hanfuisdividedintouniformandcommonclothing.Withstrictstandards,uniformisdressedonformaloccasionswhilethecommonclothing,withoutlongsleeves,isveryconvenienttopeoplesdailylife.However,thewesternclothingisdifferentformtheChineseclothing.TheWestbelongstoMarinecivilization,itemphasizesthesubjec
18、tiveandobjectiveseparationandthatweshouldrationallytreatclothing,advocatereleasingpersonality,stressdresseffectandbegoodatshowingbeautifulthepostureofthebody.Besides,weusevariousclipping,colorcollocationmeanstoperfectbodilycurveandgiveapersonwithvisualcomfortinthemodeling.Asuit,alsoknownasabusinesss
19、uit,comprisesacollectionofmatchingclothingconsistingof:acoatcommonlyknownasajacket,awaistcoatoptionalUSAvestformen,apairoftrousersUSApants,orforwomen,ashirtortrousers.Asuitisgenerallyaccompaniedbytorment,ashirtandtieorforwomen,ablouse.1.2WhypeoplewearclothingChinesepeopleareconcernedmoreaboutitssoci
20、alfunctionofhelpingtoruleacountrywellthanthatofkeepingwarmordecorating.Ithasalottodowithrulingacountrytoregulatethedressingwayofthecommonpeople.Nevertheless,thewesternerspaymoreattentiontoitswealthvalueandfunction.Therefore,peopleputonclothingforfunctionalandsocialreasons.1.2.1ThefunctionalreasonThe
21、firstuseofclothingistoresistthecoldandcoverthebody.Functionsofclothingincludeprovidingthehumanbodyprotectionagainstextremesofclimate(extremeheat,icywinters,anddrenchingstorms)andprotectionagainstinsects,noxious,chemicals,andcontactwithabrasivesubstances.Insum,clothingprotectshumanbeingsagainstanythi
22、ngthatmightinjurethenaked,unprotectedhumanbody.1.2.2ThesocialreasonClothingalsodeliverssocialmessagestootherhumans.Socialmessagessentbyclothing,accessories,anddecorationscaninvolvesocialstatus,occupation,ethnicandreligiousbelief,maritalstatus,culturaldegreeandsexualavailability,etc.Forexample,onlyRo
23、mancitizenscanwear“TogainRomewhiledragonrobecanonlybedressedbytheemperorinChina.Chapter2CulturaldifferencesbetweenChineseandwesternclothingAsthesayinggoes:Peoplerelyonapparel,beautyreliesongoodmake-up.ThisisthesamebetweenChinaandtheWest,butforthespecificperformance-itwillbedifferent.Chineseclothingc
24、ulturediffersfromwesternclothingcultureinthefollowingaspects.2.1DesignTheChinesestyleisdecidedbytheuniqueChinesecultureandtheOrientalbodyfeature.Asthecurveofweyellowracesbodyisnotsoobvious,andChinesearefastidiousaboutself-respect,implicitlyandthedoctrineofthemean,ourclothingisastraightoverallwithwid
25、ecoatandfatsleeves,whichemphasizesplanedesign.Menswearisaone-piecerobewhilewomenswearisashortChinese-stylejacketandalongskirt.Thewesternstyleisdeterminedbythewesternaestheticthoughtofpragmatismandnationalismandthewhiteracesbodystructure.Theirbodycurveisprettysharp.Stressingscientificnature,thewester
26、nclothingisinkeepingwiththelawofmotion.Itssemi-stereoscopicdesignedwithmuffs,puckers,etc.Besides,itadvocatesindividualityandphysicalbeauty.Variouskindsofdesignssharplyrevealedthebodyline.Menwearasuitofcoatandtrouserswhilewomenwearaone-piecedress.Inaword,Chinesecostumecultureisa“coveringonewhilethewe
27、sternoneisa“revealingone.2.2ColorChineseclothingcolorlaysparticularstressonethicandasksformaintainingsocialorder,butwestern-styleclothingcolorlaysparticularstressonemotionandpaysattentiontopsychologicaladjustment.Themostimportantfactoristhecolorelementofclothing.Clothingcolorfallsintotwocolorswhicha
28、rethepurecolorandthesecondarycolorinancientChina.Thepurecolorisblue,yellow,red,whiteandblack,theothercolorsaresecondarycolor,anditprovidesthat:Theuppergarmentisthepurecolor,theundergarmentisthesecondarycolor.((礼记玉藻))DarkercolorswerefavoredoverlighteronesintraditionalChineseclothing,sothemaincolorofc
29、eremonialclothingtendedtobedarkwhilebright.Lightercoloredclothingwaswornmorefrequentlybythecommonpeopleforeveryday.Chinesearesaidtohaveafullydevelopedsystemofmatching,coordinatingcolorsandshadesoflightanddarkinclothing.PeopleinancientChinaalsousedifferentcolorsofclothingtodistinguishpeoplesidentity.
30、TheblackcolorwasregardedastheoneoftheCelestialRulerSupremeGodtoruleeverything.SointheXiaShangandZhouDynasty,theclothingwasmainlyblack.WiththedevelopmentofthefeudalUnitarianism,peoplebegantoadoretheground(yellow)insteadofgod(black).SoitformedtherulersinancientChinabelievedinthetheoryof“FiveElement.Th
31、eythoughtheblue,redyellow,whiteandblackrepresentedrespectivelyfiveelementsofthewood,fire,earth,goldandwater.“Yellow,regardedasthenoblest,symbolizedtheeast;red,thesouth;white,thewest;andblack,thenorth.Thesefivecolorswere“principalcolors,andinsomedynastieswereexclusivetothegarmentofemperorsandofficial
32、s,Commonpeoplewereallowedtowearonlysecondarycolors.(Zhi73)ThissystemofclothingcolorshadlastedtotheQingDynastyandtheyellowrobehadbeenthesymbolofimperialpowerallthetime.Theredcolorisregardedasanauspiciouscolor.Whilehavingahappyevent,suchaswedding,thebrideandbridegroomwillwearredclothesandshoesinancien
33、tChinatoshowtheirhappyfeelingsandwishesforgoodluck.TodayChinesepeoplestilltendtochooseredcoloronhappyoccasion.However,inthewesterncountries,theredcoloristooshowytobesexy.Thewhiteandpurplearemorepopular.Whitesymbolizespurity,innocenceandjustice,purplemeansnobility.Atweddings,thebridewillwearwhitewedd
34、inggrowntosymbolizeherpurityandnobility.Inthemedievalperiod,thecolorfulwindowsoftheuniquechurchweredecoratedsplendidlytoguidepeopletotheheaven.Sothedesignswithreligiouscolorsareadored.Jesusteachesinabluegarment,andtheVirginMaryisusuallydepictedinabluemantle.So,blueisconsideredasthecolorforthespirita
35、ndtheintelligent.Itislovedbymanywesternpeople.2.3PatternandornamentsTheformeremphasizescolormatching,patterndesign,theeffectofembroideryandthechangeoftheclothingsfrontpiece,collar,sleeves,andbucklesandsoon.RepresentingtheChinesewritersidealspirits,plumblossom,orchid,andchrysanthemumandpinetreecanbec
36、ommonlyseenonChineseclothing.Amongallornaments,thejadeisthemostpopularone.However,thelatterpaysmoreattentiontothelaceandembroideryoftheneck,chestandsleeves.Thepatternsaremostlyregularpomegranategrainsandwaterchestnutlines.Itslayoutissymmetrical,modelingfullandcolorsgorgeous.Thefemaleattireisusuallyd
37、ecoratedwithjewelrylikepearlsanddiamonds.Besides,thehatandglovesareindispensableornaments.Formen,ahatandawalkingstickareenough.2.4MaterialTherelationshipofhumantonatureisalsoreflectedinthechoiceofthematerials.DuringtheStoneAge,Chineseinventedtheboneawlandtheboneneedleandcreatedprimitiveclothingwitht
38、heaidofthesetools.Approximately5000yearsago,ChinawasintheNeolithicPrimitiveagricultureandthetextilesindustry.Atfirstpeopleuseplantfiber,suchaslinen,ramie,etc.,andanimalfibers,suchaswooltoweave.Latertheydiscoveredhowtoraisethesilkwornandspinsilk,andthepuresilkclotheswerelikedbymanyChinesepeople,espec
39、iallythewealthy.Itisasymboloftheirsocialstatus.SilkisagreatcontributiontohumanlifefromChinesepeople,soitisimpossibletotalkChineseclothingculturewithoutsilk.DifferentfromsilkcultureinChina,flaxcultureprevailsinancientEgypt,woolcultureprevailsintheMesopotamiaandcottoncultureprevailsinIndia.AncientGree
40、ceandAncientRomehavenopioneeringworkinmaterials,andtheyimportsflaxandwoolculturesfromMediterraneancoastsandUpperPaleozoiccivilizations.Asforsilk,althoughancientRomehastouchedsilkfromFarEastthroughSilkRoadin138BC,theywereneverabletounderstandthemysteriesofthisbeautifulfabric.Lately,theyknownthesecret
41、sofsilkfromtwomissionariessendtoChinabytheByzantineEmpire.Thenonecenturylater,thefirstsilkisproducedinByzantineEmpire,butEuropeansproducedfirstsilkuntiltheItalianRenaissancein13-14century.Inaword,Chineseclothingpreferssilk,cotton,linenandco-hempwhilethewesternonetendstouseflax,wool,cottonandvelvet.T
42、hesilkisoneofthecontributionsChinahasmadetotheworld.“WewesternershavereceivedtoomuchfromtheChinese.(法国服装设计师伊夫圣洛朗,中国美术馆举办作品回首展时的前言,1985年5月Theformeradoptsbasting,handneedleandpatchwhilethelatterpaysmoreattentiontoadaptingtoclothingsfunctioninsewingcraft.2.5StructureandModeling“Theelegantlinedependspri
43、marilyonthestructureofpurityandrefinement.YvesSaintLaurentItreflectsthatthestructureisveryimportantforclothing.ThestructureofChinese-stylecostumeiscompletelyplanar,straightandcomfortable.However,thestructureofWestern-styledressisstereosplittypeandsuitablethebody.Chineseandwesterndressisdesignedbydif
44、ferentbodyposture.Soitformsdifferentstructure.Fromthesystemofancientdeepclothing,traditionalChineseclothinghadadoptedthestructureofhumanbodythatopenedhishandflatandsplithislegslightly.Therefore,thetailoredclothingisstraightline,wholechipandflat-screen.Itisstraightandcomfortable,simpleandhandyandalso
45、goodforwork.DressedinChinese-stylecostume,youmayfellveryconvenient.ThestructureofChineseclothingfeatureisthatthereisnoshoulderseamontheshoulder,athreadlinksthefrontdresstothebackgarmentandevensleevesarealsooutofthebody.Ifthewidthoffabricisnotwideenough,thenaddsleeveletatbothsidesofthesleeves.Sothere
46、isno“outsidesleeveinChinese-styleclothing.Thatwordisreplacedby“chushouwhicharestartingfromthemiddleofthebodytothesizeofthepalm.Accordingtothemeasurementofwestern-styleclothes,thesizeof“chushouincludingtwopartsdatathathalfshoulderandthelengthofupperlimb.Becausewestern-styleclothingemphasizesthatitfit
47、sbodytypeandthusthestructureofclothingismorecomplex.Itdesignscollar,clothing,sleeves,trouserlegsandothermainpartswithsomeofitssubsidiary,constitutesthewholeclothingandpantsbythebodystructurestrunk,upperandlowerlimbsinallparts.Whileeachofthemajorcomponentsisinaccordancewiththebodycontourslength,short
48、andthickness,composesirregularlytubularformandsoon.Suchasthecoarsechestcircumference,hiplineandsmallerwaistline,smallercollars,clothingconstitutesirregularlytubularbodyandring-shapedcollar.Westernclothingisafragmented,curve-shaped,three-dimensionalclothing,itsmostnotablefeatureistheshoulderseam,slee
49、ves,thefrontofclothingandthebackofgarmentareseparate,thewholegarmentisconsistofmanypiecesofgarments.Andtheoutlineofthegarmentisthearc-shapedorcurve-shaped,asforcoat,itschestcircumferenceisloose,waistlineisfolded,hiplineisrelease,andshouldersareoblique.Thewholegarmentsculptisfullofcurveshape,whichisundulatingandthree-dimensionalstructure,andcompletelycompa