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1、目 录内容提要前言（第4版） Preface（4th edition）前言（第1版） Preface（1st edition）前言（第2版） Preface（2ed edition）前言（第3版） Preface（3rd edition）Lesson OneTextiles：History，Development and Category Lesson TwoCottonLesson ThreeProperties of the Naturally Colored Cottons* Lesson FourWoolLesson FiveSilk Lesson SixFlaxLesson Seve
2、nOther Bast Fibers* Lesson EightMan-made Fibers Lesson NineRegenerated Fibers* Lesson TenSynthetic FibersLesson ElevenFunctional Fibers（1）*Lesson TwelveFunctional Fibers（2）* Lesson ThirteenFiber Identification Lesson FourteenStaple Fiber SpinningLesson FifteenNew Spinning System（1） Lesson SixteenNew
3、 Spinning System（2）*LessonSeventeenRelationshipBetweenYarnStructureand Fabric PerformanceLesson Eighteen Yarn Properties（1） Lesson Nineteen Yarn Properties（2） Lesson Twenty Textured Yarn*Lesson Twenty-OneBlend Yarns and Fabrics* Lesson Twenty-TwoWoolen and Worsted Lesson Twenty-ThreeRaw Wool Treatme
4、nt*Lesson Twenty-FourWoolen Carding* Lesson Twenty-FiveYarn Winding Lesson Twenty-SixWarpingLesson Twenty-SevenWarp SizingLessonTwenty-EightElongationandElasticityoftheSized Yarn*Lesson Twenty-NineWeaving Lesson ThirtyShedding*Lesson Thirty-OneShuttleless Looms Lesson Thirty-TwoBasic WeavesLesson Th
5、irty-ThreeSeveral Typical Weaves* Lesson Thirty-FourKnittingLesson Thirty-FiveKnitting Machines and Principles* Lesson Thirty-SixBasic Knitted Structures*Lesson Thirty-SevenFabric Finishing and DyeingLessonThirty-EightFabricPermanentSetandShrinkage Control*Lesson Thirty-NineNonwovensLessonFortyNonwo
6、vensforPersonalProtective Equipment（PPE）*Lesson Forty-OneOther Applications of Nonwoven Fabrics*Lesson Forty-TwoAppearance，Maintenance and Durability of FabricsLesson Forty-ThreeFashion Style and Design Lesson Forty-FourFashion Movement*Lesson Forty-FiveMechanical Properties of Fabrics Lesson Forty-
7、SixOther Physics Properties of Fabrics* Lesson Forty-SevenStandards for Textiles and Apparel Lesson Forty-EightTextile Legislation*Lesson Forty-NineHigh Performance Fibers* Lesson FiftyNanofibers*Lesson Fifty-OneOverview of Industrial Textiles Lesson Fifty-TwoClassification of Industrial Textiles*Le
8、sson Fifty-ThreeDifferences Between Industrial Textiles and Non-industrial Textiles*Lesson Fifty-FourTextile Reinforced Composite Materials* Lesson Fifty-FiveTextiles in Transportation*Lesson Fifty-SixGeotextiles* Lesson Fifty-SevenFuture Textiles VocabularyReferencesLesson One Textiles：History， Dev
9、elopment and CategoryTextiles and Modern Life语言微课堂The term“Textile”is a Latin word originated from the word“texere”which means“to weave”.Textile refers to a flexible material comprising of a network of natural or articial fibers.Textiles are formed by weaving，knitting，braiding，nonwovens and other me
10、thods of pressing fibers together.The evolutionary pathway of textiles goes back to the Stone Age with men and women wore clothing made of animal skins and plant leaves to protect them from the cold，sun，sand，and dust，this can be considered as the birth of textiles（Fig.1.1）.From the earliest hand-hel
11、d spindle and distaff and basic handloom to the highly automated spinning machines and power looms of today，the principles of turning vegetable fiber into cloth have remained constant：Plants are cultivated and the fiber harvested.The fibers are cleaned and aligned，then spun into yarn or thread.Final
12、ly，the yarns are interwoven to produce cloth.Today we also spin complex synthetic fibers，but they are still woven together using the same process as cotton and flax were millennia ago.Fig.1.1 Animal skins for prehistoric peopleNowadays，textiles are an integral part of our world.Textiles touch our da
13、ily lives，from casualwear to household textiles to more technically advanced materials used in medical applications to industrial products.When we wake up in the morning，we raise our head from pillows covered with fabric and often filled with fibers and climb out from under sheets and blankets.We st
14、ep into slippers and slip into robes.We wash our bodies with washcloths and dry them with towels.We brush our teeth with toothbrushes； the bristles are synthetic textile fibers.We drink coffee or tea，and the coffee grounds and tea leaves are filtered through nonwoven textiles.We dress in knit and wo
15、ven apparel fabrics.When we get into a car or bus，we sit on upholstered seats and the vehicle moves on tires reinforced with strong textile yarns.We stand on carpets，sit on upholstered furniture，and look out of curtained（draped）windows in our living and working spaces.Fiberglass insulation in our bu
16、ildings reduces heating and cooling bills.The golf clubs， tennis rackets，and ski poles we use in recreational sports may be reinforced with lightweight textile fibers.The roads and bridges we travel over may be stabilized or reinforced with textiles.The stadiums we sit in may be covered with a fabri
17、c roof.Some of us have wounded tissue closed and held together by textile sutures after surgical procedures.Throughout the day，we use other types of manufactured products；most of them would have more or less fibers or textiles embedded.Even the processed foods we eat have passedthrough textile filte
18、rs.Our increased knowledge of space is partially due to the development of strong，heat-resistant textile fibers that prevent the exhaust cones of space satellites from melting and disintegrating under the tremendous heat they are exposed to when launched.The spacewalking astronauts must be protected
19、 by space suits against high temperature，solar radiation and micro-environmental factors such as meteor harm the human body in space.Nowadays，every person in home capable of knowing his or her health condition without complex detecting instruments is due to the use of smart fabrics or wearable devic
20、es.No aspect of our lives seems untouched by textiles.The History of TextilesThe history of textiles is almost as old as that of human civilization.The wearing of clothing is exclusively a human characteristic and is a feature of most human societies.It is not known when humans began wearing clothes
21、 because nature animal hair and plant fibers used were easily rotten but anthropologists believe that animal skins and vegetation were adapted into coverings as protection from cold，heat and rain，especially as humans migrated to new climates.Our knowledge of ancient textiles and clothing has expande
22、d in the recent past thanks to modern technological developments.Genetic analysis suggests that the human body louse，which lives in clothing，may only have diverged from the head louse some 170 millennia ago，which supports evidence that humans began wearing clothing at around this time.These estimate
23、s predate the first known human exodus from Africa，although other hominid species who may have worn clothes-and shared these louse infestations-appear to have migrated earlier.Evidence suggests that humans may have begun wearing clothing as far back as 10,000 to 50,000 years ago.The earliest dyed fl
24、ax fibers have been found in a prehistoric cave in the Republic of Georgia and date back to 36,000 BP.Possible sewing needles have been dated to around 40,000 years ago.More evidence would have to rely on the plethora of stunning cave paintings and rock drawings in prehistoric times.Clothing and tex
25、tiles have been important in human history and reflect the materials available to a civilization as well as the technologies that had been mastered.The social significance of the finished product reflects their culture.Our knowledge of cultures varies greatly with the climatic conditions to which ar
26、cheological deposits are exposed；the Middle East and the arid fringes of China have provided many very early samples in good condition， but the early development of textiles in other moist parts of the world remains unclear.Textiles have a long tradition in the world.Historical evidence indicates th
27、at in the early days of human civilization，three principal countries of the east have been distinguished by their distinctive type of textiles：China as the land of silk，Egypt as the country of flax（and linen），and India of cotton.Lets just use Chinese textiles as an example.Chinese textiles are world
28、-famous and extraordinary for their fine quality and profound symbolic meanings.Chinese textiles are one of the oldest in the world，dating back to the Chinese civilization.The earliest evidence of silk production in China was found at the sites of Yangshao culture in Xia，Shanxi，where a cocoon of bom
29、byx mori，the domesticated silkworm，cut in half by a sharp knife is dated to between 5000 BC and 3000 BC.Fragments of primitive looms are also seen from the sites of Hemudu culture in Yuyao，Zhejiang，dating back to about 4000 BC.Scraps of silk were found in a Liangzhu culture site at Qianshanyang in H
30、uzhou， Zhejiang，dating back to 2700 BC.Other fragments have been recovered from royal tombs in the Shang Dynasty（c.1600 BCc.1046 BC）.Under the Shang Dynasty，Han Chinese clothing or Hanfu consisted of a yi，a narrow-cuffed，knee-length tunic tied with a sash，and a narrow， ankle-length skirt，called shan
31、g，worn with a bixi，a length of fabric that reached the knees.Clothing of the elite was made of silk in vivid primary colours.During the history of China，lots of artists presented the silk clothing in their work.For example，Daolian Drawing as shown in Fig.1.2，one of famous paintings in Tang Dynasty，p
32、resents silk fabric manufacture inChina.Fig.1.2 Court ladies preparing newly woven silk（a part of Daolian Drawing collected in Museum of Fine Arts Boston in USA）.Early 12th-century painting by Emperor Huizong of Song（a remake of an 8th-century original by artist Zhang Xuan in Tang Dynasty）思政微课堂：捣练图的
33、故事思政微课堂：丝绸之路With the growing of worlds population，the rise of productivity，the increasing wealth of goods，it changes our ways of living.There is a road， Silk Road，that changed the world.The Silk Road is named after the lucrative international trade in Chinese silk textiles that started during the Ha
34、n Dynasty（207 BC220 CE），although earlier trade across the continents had already existed.The exchange of luxury textiles was predominant on the Silk Road，a series of ancient trade and cultural transmission routes that were central to cultural interaction through regions of the Asian continent connec
35、ting East and West by linking traders，merchants，pilgrims，monks，soldiers， nomads and urban dwellers from China to the Mediterranean Sea during various periods of time.Geographically，the Silk Road or Silk Route is an interconnected series of ancient trade routes between Changan（todays Xian）in China，wi
36、th Asia Minor and the Mediterranean extending over 8,000km on land and sea.Trade on the Silk Road was a significant factor in the development of the great civilizations of China，Egypt，Mesopotamia， Persia，the Indian subcontinent，and Rome，and helped to lay the foundations for the modern world.Nowadays
37、，the China-proposed Belt and Road Initiative（BRI）will help the mechanism boost trade among nations in the region and increase global real income.The Industrial Revolution，began in Britain，was a major turning point in world history；Almost every aspect of daily life changed in some way.The Industrial
38、Revolution was the transition to new manufacturing processes in the period from about 1760 to sometime between 1820 and 1840.During this transition，hand production methods changed to machines and new chemical manufacturing and iron production processes were introduced.Water power efficiency improved
39、 and the increasing use of steam power increased.Machine tools were developed and the factory system was on the rise.Average income and population began to grow exponentially.Textiles were the main industry of the Industrial Revolution as far as employment，the value of output and capital invested.Th
40、e textile industry was also the first to use modern production methods.Several inventions in textile machinery occurred in a relatively short time period during the Industrial Revolution.Here is a timeline highlighting some of them： 1733 Flying shuttle invented：an improvement to looms that enabledwe
41、avers to weave faster. 1742 Cotton mills were first opened in England. 1764 Spinning jenny invented：the first machine to improve upon the spinning wheel. 1764 Water frame invented：the first powered textile machine. 1773 The first all-cotton textiles were produced in factories. 1779 The spinning mule
42、 invented：greater control over the weaving process. 1787 Cotton goods production had increased 10 fold since 1770. 1790 The first steam-powered textile factory was built.思政微课堂：纺织工业 1804 The Jacquard loom invented：weaved complex designs. 1813 The variable speed loom invented. 1856 The first synthetic
43、 dye invented. Categories of Textile FibersA textile fiber is a unit of matter，either natural or man-made，that forms the basic element of fabrics and other textile structures.Generally，textile fibers are used successfully for manufacturing three types of fabrics which are apparel fabrics，home furnis
44、hing fabrics and industrial fabrics of certain types.The major characteristic of textile fibers is thousand times longer than its width.Textile fibers generally fall within the range of 10 to 50m in diameter and individual fibers can vary in length from less than 1cm to thousands of meters.Textile f
45、abrics are rarely manufactured from individual fibers but rather from a yarn，which is defined as a strand of textile fibers in a form suitable for wearing，knitting，braiding，felting，webbing，or otherwise fabricating into a fabric.To become a textile fabric，fibers used must have some fundamental proper
46、ties and characteristics，as given below：（1） It must have fibrous formation.（2） Its length is thousand times longer than its diameter.（3） It should have sufficient strength and spinnability.（4） It should have contained elasticity and flexibility characteristics.（5） It must be fineness.（6） It must hav
47、e special color.（7） It should have affinity to dye stuff.According to the properties and characteristics，textile fibers are classified into two main parts which are natural fiber and man-made fiber or artificial fiber.The general classification of textile fibers is listed in Fig.1.3 as below.Fig.1.3
48、 The general classification of textile fibersA natural fiber is any fiber that exists as such in the natural state，such as cellulose，protein and mineral.The origin of cellulose is a vegetable or plant，protein is animal and mineral is asbestos.A man-made fiber is an artificial fiber，which is made by a polymerization process in the factory.But some man-made fibers are made from natural fibers which are called man- made cellulosic fiber or regenerated man-made fiber.Other man-made fibers are classified in two ways：synthetic polymer fibers and ma